Dazed And Amused

Another day spent boggling at the immensity of it all.

Busted a move up to Chatuchak Weekend market; it is, I suppose, the largest flea-market in the known universe. Unlike the street-vendor scene, though, it’s very well organised:

“There are almost everything can be found here,” boasts the website — and I’m not inclined to disagree!

Across the street is another daily Fresh Market, this one run by the ministry of agriculture. This market too is more-well organised, and much cleaner than its brethren; though of course the produce is more expensive. Many durian were on sale; but being out of season, they were quite expensive indeed.

A good time, perhaps, for a Fruit Report!

Mangoes. The thing with mangoes is, they’re so damned expensive that I rarely partake. On the mainland, they’re expensive and pasteurised. In Hawaii, they’re expensive but plentiful. They grew ’em at Onomea, but were out of season when I was there. Once in a while, we’d get some “rogue” fruits in, and everybody would stop what they were doing and pig out ’til the mangoes were all gone.

Here, they’re pretty expensive, too. But I thought I’d better oughta give ’em a try; and…my freakin’ god. Colour me incredulous that something could actually taste this good. Almost makes me believe in “Intelligent Design” (or what)!

Yes, I’ll say it: mangoes are more delicious than durian. Obligatory caveat that I may be singing a different tune once durian season rolls around.

Watermelon. The one I had was fine, though not as good as its deep red hue had suggested it would be. I’ll be trying more, for  sure.

Mangosteen. Considered the “Queen Of Fruit” (to durian’s king). In Hawaii, they’re eight bucks a pound; at this market, they were (trying to off-the-top convert kilos to pounds and Baht to Dollars here) about fifty cents a pound. They’re quite good here — not as good as Hawaii’s; but the price is damned nice!

Citrus. Pummelo and satsuma: fairly underwhelming, frankly. Much better in Hawaii — though certainly edible here.

Longans. Got some from a supermarket my first night here. They were good, but seemed a bit underripe. Again, Hawaii’s much more impressive — however, grade incomplete. Need to get some riper ones.

Papayas, pineapples, and jakfruit are in season, but I’ve yet to try. Tomorrow’s another day (but may just end up breaking the bank on more mangoes!)…

Hoofed it over to the river, and caught a river taxi back down to the Silom area, whereon I was yet again bowled over by the street-vendor potpourri, these ones catering to the tourists staying in the big river hotels. They’re everywhere! It’s crazy-insane; but certainly fascinating.

But get this: according to the guidebook, it’s Chinatown (wherein I’ve not yet set foot) which forms “the epicentre of Bangkok’s bustling commercial cult”. Truly, the mind does boggle. Will have to put this on the list of things to do — though probably not tomorrow, as all this shod walking’s killing my feet  (even wearing the Five Fingers).

Oh, speaking of which, it appears one way to ensure that locals will not approach you (apart from the Patpong pimps, that is) is to refrain from breaking any cultural taboos. To-day I toed the company line (pun intended, yo!), and the only locals who really gave me the time of day were some very nice folks offering to help me figure out the river taxi’s fare structure. Kinda liked it better the other way!

Back on topic, another long, surreal walk down Silom road — most of this section not having been trod before now — landed me again in Lumphini Park. Well, forget what I said before about nothing happening there: you just gotta know when to go, apparently.

And night-time, Lumphini is all about the aerobics, baby! At several different sites within the park, the locals gather to move their bodies to that crazy Bhangra beat (some sort of local Thai variant, I think)….and spectators line the path to watch like as though it were the Fourth O’ July parade. Why would they?

’cause it’s awesome! Guess you kinda have-to-be-there, as no explanation would possibly do it justice. So, here’s a video. It’s too dark to really see what’s going  on, but just try  not to laugh your ass off at the caller’s instructions.

Perhaps “amused” isn’t exactly the right word. “Enthused” might be better; maybe even “entranced”. Whatever, I coulda stayed there all the night long — alas, the mosquitoes came in and started harshing my buzz, so I had to take off. But will probably return! (Indeed, the symphony orchestra’s giving a free concert in the Park tomorrow evening. Can’t pass that up.)

Posted in Culture, Fruit, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Bangkok, Thailand Uber Alles

Well, you’ll never, ever, ever, ever, ever get bored in Bangkok, Thailand.

While I personally prefer the laid-back hometown vibe of Hilo (not to mention the magisterial views), Bangkok certainly ought to be experienced.

A zillion cars jam the motorways. Added to which, a good half-zillion motorcycles, and a jam-packed subway and skytrain. There are crosswalks, too; but certain demise awaits any chump foolish enough proceed as though the motorist has ceded the right-of-way.

A zillion street-vendors sell a zillion different fried food items. A zillion more sell a zillion each of watches, sunglasses, DVDs, t-shirts, and glow-in-the-dark flying whirligigs. A zillion pimps sell a zillion different services. And a zillion farang are here to lap it all up. It’s a madhouse, I tells ya. Must be seen to be believed.

And then there’re the fresh markets. To-day I visited the one at Khlong Toei. Think Pike Place Market times about twelve million. Endless rows of endless vendors selling endless supplies of fish, meat, live chickens (yikes!), spices, and, of course, fruits and vegetables. Betcha more than a few persons have got lost in its circuitous  maze and not seen hide nor hair of the outside world for days.

Now, here’re some workout watermelons.

I purchased one a bit smaller than these for about $4; so guessing these monstrosities would be on the order of $6! I took mine to Lumphini Park to sit and eat and mind my own business.

The Park — situated (both geographically and metaphysically) between the always-on, amped-to-eleven, barely-controlled chaos of the Silom/Patpong markets and the city-that-never-stops Disneyworld of shopping at Siam Square (the megalithic hotels and shopping plaza lining Bamrung Muang Road are apparently the beginnings of the Great Wall Of Thailand) —  is an oasis of calm.

The city left behind, one may feel free to relax and watch the old ladies doing their yoga, the old ladies sweeping the walking paths, or the iguanas swimming down the river. So there I was minding my own business, when all of the suddenly this situation developed.

First, the pigeons came calling, as pigeons will do, to sup upon the seeds I was spitting onto the grass. But then, some ravens came in, and kept calling in more and more. There they sat and squawked, a good forty of them, surrounding me in three different trees. I was about 10,000% sure I’d never get of there without getting shat on.

But, miraculously, they held off. In return, I offered up the watermelon remains, which offering they gladly accepted.

And then later on, dammit all, another situation developed. I was walking through Central World on my way to check out Central Chidlom’s reportedly impressive produce aisle, and a nice looking three-piece dressed in traditional garb and playing traditional instruments, fired up right there in the middle of the mall.

Never being one to pass up a free concert, I waltzed in and sat at a vacant spot in one of the comfy sofas in the front  row. Had just gotten down to the business of trying to determine whether the hors d’oeuvres were real or fake, when the very nice lady next to me informed me that the front row was reserved for VIPs, but that I was welcome to stay and watch, seated on one of the comfy ottomen making up the other rows.

No sooner had I relocated, that the band finished its first number, and most of my formerly co-front-row dwellers were called up onstage by the emcees. They ended up telling many tales of (I’m guessing) some entertaining achievements and/or  praiseworthy deeds. I myself didn’t understand a word of their tales, but they were all dressed smartly; and after the tales had finished their tellings, the VIPs gathered together to bang the big drum.

Finally the band returned, with dancers in tow, and ripped out a few rousing numbers. During which, I learnt that the “hors d’oeuvres” were not only real, but were actually Thai candies. The lady who’d outed me offered me a dish of them, and I was already too embarrassed to turn her down (and didn’t think she’d have believed any sob story about only eating raw fruits and veggies), so tried the smallest, most innocuous-looking piece. Some kind of peanut/coconut deal, I guess.

 ’twas not the day’s only faux-pas, as it turns out. I was reprimanded, by one of the very nice employees of the hostel at which I’m staying, for having gone outside without having first shod my feet.

I’d known that this might be an issue, but wasn’t quite sure, so decided to give it the old college try. No dice, I guess.

Though I note that the old man in the park with whom I chatted for a while (if I understood him correclty, he’s got daughters living in Washington, Idaho, San Francisco, Wyoming, Montana, and Utah) didn’t seem to mind.

But if I don’t wanna get my ass deported, looks like my Barefoot In Bangkok days have already run their course. (Boo hoo!)

Posted in Culture | Leave a comment

Fun With Sentences

I guess you’re familiar with the famous grammatically correct sentence…

Buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo.

If not, you could read up on it via its Wikipedia entry. Basically it translates that various buffalo [the animal] from Buffalo [the city] buffalo [the verb] various other buffalo from Buffalo. Fun!

Got to wondering whether I could make one, too. I think I did!

Major major Major Major Major Major major major Major Major Major Major.

It breaks down like this:

Major — As in, of voting age.

major — As in, enthusiastic — e.g., “I am a major fan of eggplant.”

Major Major Major Major — A character in Joseph Heller’s Catch 22; used here as an archetype.

major — As in, the military rank (between captain and colonel, apparently).

major — As in, one’s field of study.

Major Major Major Major — As in, an individual of major rank.

Put it all together, and you get a Major who had majored in majoring (presumably at West Point or whatever), who is of voting age, and who is quite enthusiastically of the Heller character’s type (in point of fact so enthusiastically of the type that he’s even legally changed his name to match the character’s).

It works, right? I think it works!

Gets even more fun when we combine ’em:

Buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo major major Major Major Major Major major major Major Major Major Major buffalos.

Friggin’ twenty-one word sentence, comprised of two different words (or, let’s say two-and-a-half, considering the last word), no punctuation save the period…and I’m pretty damned sure it works!

The moral of the story: next time somebody insists that sentences are not fun, you turn around and tell them to fuck right off.

Posted in Culture | Leave a comment

#1 Best Holy Day?

I’m a fan of each of Xmas, Thanksgiving, and Superbowl Sunday. Christmas definitely has the best music.

Last night, went, for specifically that reason, with my sister to the Christmas Eve service at St. Mark’s cathedral.

Ended up getting all pissed off when, not two moments after offering prayers for peace and justice, did they offer “especial” prayers to the military and associated family-members. Uh, what? How about for the victims of our military endeavours? If they’d have been smart, they’d have sent the moneydish around before that; ’cause I’d probably have dropped some in.

Anyhow, the music was pretty good, though I found the organ a bit overwhelming. Quite enjoyed the tympanist (pretty sure that’s the first time I’ve ever written the word “tympanist”!).

Was struck by the enormous number of hymns from which to choose, and had been musing aloud that it might be kind of funny if the choir director had chosen thus-and-so hymn for a given day’s service, only to be disagreed with by the Grand Poobah — and then maybe it would come to blows (or what?).

Turns out, though, that the Poobah’s word is final in matters musical (sort of). Got a kick out of this passage, from the fine print in the Hymnal 1982 (emphasis added):

It shall be the duty of every Member of the Clergy to see that music is used as an offering for the glory of God and as a help to the people in their worship in accordance with The Book of Common Prayer and as authorized by the rubrics or by the General Convention of this Church. To this end the Member of the Clergy shall have final authority in the administration of matters pertaining to music. In fulfilling this responsibility the Minister shall seek assistance from persons skilled in music. Together they shall see that music appropriate to the context in which it is used. — Constitutions and Canons of the Episcopal Church, Title 2, Canon 6, Section 1

Are you “skilled in music”? If so, don’t be surprised to at some point receive a phone call from an Episcopalian minister!

Posted in Music | Leave a comment

Dear Barack Obama: Please Go Fuck Yourself Already

I didn’t vote for the motherfucker. I found the motherfucker’s pre-election Hope-hype transparently bullshittable. I cackled long and loud when the motherfucker won the Nobel Peace Prize.  I’ve argued a million-and-one times that the policies of the motherfucker’s administration have been wholly indistinguishable from those of his predecessor’s.

But I guess I’m not cynical enough, because his latest trick has truly shocked me.

Barack Obama marked an end to a war he once described as “dumb” by declaring the conflict in Iraq a success and saying the last US troops will leave in the coming days with their “heads held high”.

Shocking…but even more, just absolutely sickening.

In true Bush-era fashion, there was plenty of merriment in Obama’s speech (transcript courtesy the official White House website) at Fort Bragg…

Now, I’m sure you realize why I don’t like following Michelle Obama. (Laughter.) She’s pretty good. And it is true, I am a little biased, but let me just say it: Michelle, you are a remarkable First Lady. You are a great advocate for military families. (Applause.) And you’re cute. (Applause.) I’m just saying — gentlemen, that’s your goal: to marry up. (Laughter.) Punch above your weight.

…and plenty of good old-fashioned Nuremberg-esque jingoism…

AUDIENCE:  Hooah!  (Applause.) […]

THE PRESIDENT:  Hello, everybody!  (Applause.)  Hello, Fort Bragg!  All the way!

AUDIENCE:  Airborne! […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah! […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah! […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah!  (Applause.) […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah! […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah!  (Applause.) […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah! […]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah![…]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah![…]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah![…]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah![…]

AUDIENCE:  Hooah!  (Applause.) […]

…but nowhere to be found is any mention of the humanitarian and ecological toll of the second Gulf War, which mark it as one of the more depraved crimes in American history (and that’s saying a helluva lot).

Hundreds of thousands dead? More than a million internal refugees? Unexploded cluster bombs maiming and killing even more? Radiological munitions? Civilian infrastucture laid waste? Wanton torture and cruelty?

Hooah!, and pass the motherfucking popcorn.

Barack Obama, like his predecessor before him, is a War Criminal. Like his predecessor before him, he thinks his crimes are praise-worthy, and joke-worthy. Like his predecessor’s before his, his Administration has been a pox upon this world.

A vote cast for this man in 2012 is a vote for death, destruction, and misery untold. Just don’t do it.

Posted in Current Events | 2 Comments