In These Last Days

Ack! I’ve got the De Talak madness. Each and every night, a whole other different slew of fascinatingly super-entertainingly friendly peeps keeping me up ‘til the very wee hours. I love this city and this hostel so very much – but it does tend to limit one’s time available for blogging activities.

In a few hours, I’m off to Penang. The eighteen-hour third-class train-trip has now my very eyeballs in its sights. If my dimpled ass survives, wonders untold – in the form of the Malaysian Durian Season – await.

So, let’s see whether in these few hours we can’t suss out a workable-if-abbreviated accounting of the week’s events?

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Well, the train from Chaing Mai to Bangkok was much more scenic that I’d remembered from either of my two northbound trips along the same route.

On Sunday, I visited at Rata’s suggestion a couple of bustling street markets over the west side of the river.

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I suppose this may be the authentic Chinese Checkers?

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How’s this one for detective work? Could we possibly intuit the gist of a sign completely filled in with gibberish, save for the three recognisable numbers?

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Context! We’re living, by Buddhist reckoning, in the year 2555, and this was on the 17th; so presumably the word between the “15” and “2555” is “June”. Having previously puzzled at the charging of 8 Baht fare, rather than the six-and-one-half Baht which had, aboard non-A/C buses, been collected prior to my departure to Chiang Mai, the jigsaw does now magically begin to coalesce.

The sign must reads: “NOTICE: Effective the 15th Day of June in the year of Lord Buddha 2555, the new fare for this route shall have been changed to 8 Baht.” (Or words to this effect.)

Tuesday was the day of visiting many temples in the most ancient area of the city. First up was the Golden Mount.

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A semi-vigorous tree-lined stair-climb delivers one to the top o’ the mountain. Some nice shrines inhabit, and the roof-deck provides an expansive view of the city (including of our beloved Wat Arun).

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The grounds’ attached Chapel gots some nice murals…

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…although the ask here seems rather crass even by typical Bangkok standards.

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Across the street, not only is the Loha Prasat’s colour scheme a fun little old change-of-pace…

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…but this just so happens to be one of only three structures of its type ever to have been raised – and the only one still standing.

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Not only this, however! Would you be interested to learn that its magnificence cannot be bound by terrestrial limits?

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The second-floor ring is loaded up with Buddha images and helpful words of wisdom deriving from the Master’s lips.

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Each of the five levels gives a different angle from which to view the Prasats – including, at the last, their very tips-top.

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Wat Bowon Niwet, one of the city’s eldest and most important temples has got some very beautiful buildings to be sure.

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Unfortunately, they were all closed up. The main Chapel, owing to monkly doings, could be viewed only through a couple of open windows. Nice, though!

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Though it had not been my intention, I on the following day (and after a series of mishaps, the telling of which is yet to come) ended up back in this part city. May as well check in to see if Bowon Niwet’s doors were open to-day. Good thing, too; as the temple’s murals are perhaps the most O.G. in all of Bangkok.

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Wat Indrawihan is famous for its tall-as Standing Buddha image. “Tall” it definitely has proven – though surprisingly underdeveloped in the “length” dimension.

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Frankly, I preferred the temple’s murals (going all meta on our ass) and lovely exterior.

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Wat Benchamabophit, AKA the “Marble Temple” is a structure of almost incomparable beauty. It is one of the only two temples I’ve to-date visited – Angkor’s Banteay Srei is the other – which completely transfixes the viewer, casting its spell so thoroughly that the mortal is near to incapacitated with delight. Even to the point that one may find that one doth prefer simply sitting (or standing) astride the hall for the duration of all time, basking in its regal aura.

I mean to say, it’s a winner. (Though, as is too often the case, the photos cannot do the subject justice.)

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The  interior is rather austere; but while the stained-glass windows are a nice touch, it’s factually nothing about which to write home.

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The outer courtyard’s gallery offers a wide array of striking Buddha images cast in (I think?) bronze — not to mention more fine advice to be heeded by one and all (hint: stay away from rakes and seducers!).

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Across a small moat are some more very nice structures…

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…but it’s hopeless in the end; as any which way one will turn, it’s always the Marble Temple, calling you back, to be trapped in its magnetic pull; wanting, ever wanting to lose oneself forever in its embrace…

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…until, Holy shit!, it’s almost time for aerobics! And would you know it? May as well have lain put, such was the magnitude of the streets’ jam-packed status: bus arrived at the park too late, aerobics already finished.

Wednesday I thought to visit the Museum Of Imaging Technology, located on the campus of Chulalongkorn University. I figured it’d be easy enough, a big map of the grounds located near the entrance, pointing the way. No such luck! So, I called in to a little sweet-shoppe staffed by two very nice ladies.

Two very nice ladies…who informed me that no such museum existed on campus; indeed no museum of any stripe. I fished for the brochure to give them a look-see, and also in the hopes that they’d phone the joint up and send me off in the general direction. Come to find out, I’d left the brochure back at the hostel. Fucking idjit!

Instead, they drew me a map, pointing the way to a museum in Siam Square which, they thought, would do the trick in the Imaging Museum’s stead (‘cause, y’know, this one had got lots of pictures in it).

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Thwarted but unbowed, I returned to the hunt…only to soon realise that I’d been standing there speaking to them all the whole time burdened down with a big bag of Longkongs – but had failed to offer either of them even a one. Idjit squared! I scurried back to the shoppe and, begging their forgiveness, wondered if they wouldn’t enjoy to share? While deuce happy to’ve received the offer, they declined to partake.

By the help of a few different locals in combination with the well-placed signage, I finally managed to gain the Museum’s door. To find, just as I had found after the arduous journey to Chiang Mai’s Tribal Museum, that the place was closed up tight as a drum. Nary a mouse did stir, and stuff like that.

Hell on wheels, mang. Whelp, how if I try the Queen Sirikit Art Gallery? Anyhow, its admission fee is only 30 Baht, compared with the Imaging Museum’s 100 Baht. Hopped the bus back up near to the Golden Mount, and traipsed absent-mindedly in through the open door – to be politely informed that the Gallery is closed on Wednesdays. Dude showed me right there on the sign where it had been Written.

Foiled again? So, this is when I made the return visit to Bowon Niwet; and finding myself still with some time to spare couldn’t resist yet another spellbinding crack at the Marble Temple’s magnificent reverie.

After, on the bus back to Lumphini, an old man bade me turn down my music. (Normally I don’t even indulge, on the chance that there will be some English-speaking locals who would want to engage me in conversation; but this bus-ride was getting long and tedious.) After I’d done, he offered me a swig of his brew! Too much fun.

In a replay, however, of the previous day’s untoward imbroglio I ended up missing aerobics a-fucking-gain! Third time would not be the charm, I vowed, on Thursday; my last in Bangkok.

And a day in which I fell in love with the city yet again and again and again.

What could be more innocent, for starters, than a visit to the Bangkok Dolls Museum? Huhn, well, it almost ended, in tears, before it had even begun. I’d branched off into a small soi, and thought to make a quick check of the map to just make sure I was proceeding directly.

Something told me to look up, and on doing found myself nearly eye-to-eye with two decent-sized dogs racing full speed down a driveway — in my direction, gaining quickly, not making a sound. Crazy Russian dude I’d met in Vientiane had told me that barking dogs don’t bite; while dogs not barking intend to do just that. Somebody else had remarked to me that this is usually the case, though there can be exceptions.

They didn’t really look to be in the mood for fun and games, so I yelled at them to fuck right off (and such-like advice). They stopped dead in their tracks, and I was off on my way. But…damn, if I’d not looked up from the map (possibly I’d subconsciously perceived the sound of their claws striking the pavement as they’d drawn near?), that could have been a ugly one.

The Museum was not only opened for business, but kicked a fairly sizeable quantity of arse to-boot. Even had the chance to witness the doll-making process underway on the small shop floor (the dollmakers were a bit on the surly side, truth be told). The proprietress seemed genuinely shocked at my having opted not to purchase any of her wares. Not that I’d not have liked to have done – but they were pretty far outside my budget.

Here’s a small sample platter. More available over to the Flickr page.

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As I was near Siam Square, I figured I could stroll down to the site of the Museum the very nice sweet-shoppe ladies had mapped out for me the day before over at the University. On the way to the location, this fine gentleman (the one on the right, there) engaged me in conversation for a time.

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After a while, I turned to take my leave, but he called me back to him, asking, “Do you need a monk?”

“Do I need a monk?”

“Yeah. You need a monk?”

“I don’t…think so?”

“Okay.”

And I was away.

The location was another in the neighbourhood’s endless collection of multi-storey mega-malls. No museum inside; but I did done get zapped by a weird-assed coincidence. Earlier the morning, an Ohioenne whom I’d unsuccessfully attempted to send off to Wat Arun had been bitching and moaning about needing to go ahead and purchase some film. I naturally began to pelt her with all manner of questions about shooting film in this day-and-age.

Come to find out, she’s way into composing all sorts of experimental shots; made with this (news to me) all-the-rage retro-camera company’s product. “Lomography”, it’s called. So, there I was in the mall, and what’d I see before me? Yip, a Lomography store. Zing! The cameras looked pretty cool, I’ll admit it.

On the way to the Park, decided to detour into me old Silom stomping grounds; to which I’d not made visit since way back January. Another scene to make you love this city so much the more:

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Ah, yes; a grandfather out for an afternoon stroll with his charming young granddaughter…right through the heart of Patpong! Okay, the notorious Patpong Pimps weren’t quite in full throat, it being low season and all. But, still: you’ve gotta love Bangkok.

Aerobics was surprisingly well attended (more so that per usual, I mean); possibly it was because the clouds had cleared, leaving us with a unexpectedly sunny late afternoon. The music seemed just a little better than usual, the goings-on just a little bit more fun. Couldn’t help shedding a tear at the thought that this was to be my last-and-final session.

Or…was it? Not to be letting cats too much out of bags here; but it looks that I may be filling in at the hostel for a few weeks as the receptionist vacations in the US of A.

Surely, however, I have et my last and final Durian of the Thai season. It’s getting more difficult to find ripe fruits now, and the prices are gradually creeping skyward. My two previous visits to the Lumphini Durian Truck had seen me trudge away empty-handed, the husband/wife team having forlornly passed to me the news that there was, “Nothing for you.”

But yesterday, my last chance, I showed up to the Truck, and the owner excitedly proclaimed, “Ah! Nim nim! Nim nim! Nim nim!” It means: we’ve soft, ripe (what Thais consider overripe) fruit to sell you!

“Calm down, brother,” I begged him. “I’m buying what you’re selling.”

I got it back to the hostel, and after sharing some out to willing participants, sat down to have a taste. “Oh, fuck!” I squealed at the first little bite. This one was going to be very good. And so it was.

That’s the thing with this particular Durian Truck, as opposed to the Khlong Toei vendors: it’s a little more expensive, but they never try to pass off underripe fruits as being nim nim. And when there are nim nims available, you can bank on it: cat’s meow, baby.

And, now: on to conquer the Malaysian Durian Market! Or, perhaps, to meet my demise in the thrall of its might?

Time shall tell the tale.

Posted in Culture, Durian | 3 Comments

“They’re Against OTAN?”

Have returned to De Talak, of course. Only a single familiar face here: this one shopping-addicted Korean girl. She never returns my ever-friendly greetings (it’s become something of an interesting challenge by this point); but is always here when I arrive. So I think she may be a spy.

Anyway, meeting many interesting new folks; including three Frenchmen of (I’m guessing) North African descent. Tonight, I was listening to them converse with a white-skinned Frenchman. He also speaks Thai, and had been helping to translate between Rata and the other three as they tried to determine whether to arrive to the airport via taxi-cab or subway/skytrain. This was an hilarious scene unto itself; but I shan’t be going into specifics.

However!, the coolest event happened. There I was listening to the conversation; not really able to follow along, but able to recall from those long-lost three years of high-school French quite a few words. Pretty typical. In point of fact, I did even manage to correct one of them that it’s Spain, not Italy, who’s playing Croatia tonight in the Euros.

So, they’re talking along, and somehow the subject of NATO came up. After a bit of confusion in re the matter of discussion then being raised, one of the three North Africans clarified, “Ah! O-T-A-N. OTAN.” Which of course set me squealing with delight, as I’d never before heard reference to the European spelling; outside of that quite-funny scene in Whit Stillman’s Barcelona. You remember the one…

Viva way-unexpected “OTAN” reference, and viva Whit Stillman. But most of all, viva De Talak for making it happen!

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Northern Departure

[dc]R[/dc]eturned to Chiang Mai on Monday, after a most relaxing and enjoyable week-plus in Chiang Rai. As I’d slept most of the way, I had not realised, on the north-bound trip, how beautiful is the ride between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai!

Received, however, a big jolt of culture-shock leaving the laid-back and (in comparison) quiet environs of Chiang Rai to arrive back in the City Of Traffic Doom. Man, it’s just the eternal struggle in Chiang Mai: the temples so wonderful, the culture so fun, the fruit so delicious and affordable…and the traffic so life-destroyingly ævil.

[dc]A[/dc]h, well; last days in Chiang Rai I visited a few temples in town which I’d yet to get to. This one, actually fairly near my guest house, seems to do a fine job of mixing the beautiful architecture of the northern-style temples with the glitz and glimmer of the Bangkok-area mega-domes.

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The interior is pretty neat; most notably for a fun series portraying the important animals posed in front of the stupa.

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A nearby park was sporting these cool…um, banners, would you call them?

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And Wat Ched Yod, down near the bus station, had another of these humongous Buddhas that always cause the heart to skip a beat or three.

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Exterior not too shabby, either!

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Saturday evening, visited the Saturday Walking Street. Same concept as the Sunday Walking Street, but in a different part of town. Saturday’s incarnation seems to have a greater variety of vendors, and a much more extensive food alley.

Some nice-/interesting-looking plants for sale along the Street.

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This one particular vendor, though, was rockin’ some pretty odd labels for its delicacies.

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This last one, “Chili burn”: it may be somewhat difficult to see from the photo, but it looks like apple strudel or something of the sort. At any rate, something not like what one would think might be labeled “Chili burn”.

Meanwhile, the dreaded pork makes an appearance!

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Pretty good three-piece trad. outfit getting busy down near the western extreme.

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Elsewhere ‘round town: don’t pretend you don’t want some!

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…but I don’t get why they didn’t spell it out backwards, a la ambulances?

Anyhow, it’s kind of difficult to know from this angle; but this guy…

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…is the spitting image of Vijay Singh! I had to do a double-triple-quadruple-take when crossing in front of him at the light.

Also some very nice cloud formations in Chiang Rai. For some reason, though, I’m not as obsessed with photographing clouds as I’d been a few years ago.

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Now then, Durian may be the King Of Fruits, and Mangosteen the Queen; but the mighty Lychee seems to hold a very special place in Thais’ hearts as well. I told before of having shared some with the street-vendor-lady in Kanchanaburi, thereby earning her most gratitudinous thanks.

Up here in the north of Thailand,  very noticeably so in Chiang Rai, it’s like to impossible to walk down the street carrying oneself a bag of lychees without many a different local commenting upon the fact. Every time somebody does make a passing comment (it’s usually just something along the lines of, “Hey! Lychee!”), I stop and offer to share. The offer’s only accepted maybe about a third of the time; but is always well received.

So now we know: you want Thais to laugh at you right to your face, walk around barefoot; you want them to love you, walk around toting Lychees. (Although, as I say, they’re more consistently delectable here in Chiang Mai than in Chiang Rai.)

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[dc]B[/dc]ack in Chiang Mai, I beat a hasty path to the park to get my takraw fix. The action was particularly good my first night back.

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This one cat was getting some incredible air on his bicycle-kick spikes. So much so, that he’d flip completely around, and land on all fours. Check out the pooping-in-his-pants look on the face of the dude trying to figure out how he’s going to play that ball…

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This mofo’s acrobatics were so out-of-control, I decided to take some footage. And wouldn’t you know, just as soon as I so decided, the well: it ran dry. Here’re a couple of failed kicks.

And here’s a very good rally, featuring lots of impressive digging action. (Well, I don’t know for a certainty whether the volleyball terminology is in point of fact carried over to takraw; but for our purposes, it may, please Buddha, suffice.)

In Durianic news, purchased my first-ever “gargantua”:

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Have always wanted to try one of these mega-Durian; but had never seen a ripe one…’til now. Actually, it weighted in only at four kilos; so, I guess not truly gargantuan, but pretty damned big all right. Given an “overripe” discount (note the beautiful seam running down the side) to 40 Baht per kilo, the price was nice, too. Turned out, one of the chambers’ fruit was totally rotten. But the rest were quite delicious; and just holding one of the huge pods in one’s hand is a thrill unto itself.

Have since returned twice to this same vendor for some equally-scintillating deals on not-quite-as-large (though still larger-than-normal) fruits. They’re getting’ more delish as the week rolls on. Ahck! Have finally located the best Durian vendor in Chiang Mai – only to be giving myself the old heave-ho; back to Bangkok, and then points south.

Uh, yes: I’m fat again.

And, uh, yes: about to get fatter still. The ever-intrepid Lindsay and Rob over at the Year Of The Durian blog have hipped me to this fortnight of full-on Durian craziness down Penang way. Am thinking to bug out of Thailand before my visa expires in order to get in on the madness.

Wanna hear something messed up? (I mean, who wouldn’t want to?) Avos seem to be coming seriously into season. Seen ’em popping up at several different vendors’ both here and all up in Chiang Rai. Why would Mother Nature play such a cruel and unusual stunt on us mortals, bringing the (more less) only two fat-inducing fruits concurrently into season? Fuck’s sake, Why?, I ask you!

Oh, speaking of foods that’ll make you fat, in Chiang Rai I seen something most curious indeed. Viz., novices drinking colas! This is a far cry from the abstemious fare I would have expected for the young ascetic-to-be. Definitely not the picture I had in mind listening to the novices in Luang Prabang telling me about their daily lives.

[dc]T[/dc]he last few days have seen me continuing my outside-the-moat temple explorations. Visited three of the very, very nicest on the way to and back-from the depot to get my ticket to Bangkok. The clerk’s English was shockingly accomplished. Like as in, probably better than mine own! Received some great news, too, with the schedule: the train departs at 5:30 in the PM. I had assumed it would be, as is the Bangkok –> Chiang Mai schedule, 10:00.

Anyways, these temples (Chang Kong, Loi Kroh, and Pantong) were so wonderful.  A fourth one, visited before the other three, and not really clustered with them at all, continues with this weird string effect going on at some of these east-of-the-moat joints.

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Me, personally? I’m neither for nor against the string. Just think it’s odd, is all. What I am for – and in spades – is these temples’ extraordinarily exquisite beauty. Even by Chiang Mai standards, I mean to say.

Okay, this is probably more pix than is necessary to get the point across. But I’m pretty happy with the way this batch turned out; so, what the Hell, let’s overdo it a little…

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These final two are from a coupla different temples, inside the moat, FYI.

Also love the obviously worn-and-weary mien of some of the five-hundred-plus-years-ancient buildings on the grounds.

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Of course, we must note the esteemed place given to the Almighty, the Eternal Redeemer:

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Okay, time for a open letter to all human persons of this or any world: if you place on public display an image of a chicken, know that I shall scent it out, I shall track it down, I shall determine its exact whereabouts, and I shall photograph and share it to all other human persons via the World Wide Web [emphasis added].

Finally, what’s a great temple without great murals?

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Need more? You know where to go.

[dc]B[/dc]een blessed with some very fine “rain luck” this week – happening to be near a large public sheltered area each time the afternoon pours-down began their descents. This one storm, it was of a much greater intensity than I’d been anticipating…

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My plan had been to just throw on the old poncho once the rain began – but it was a lucky thing this covered food-court/boxing-ring area was right there; as the poncho should have been no match for this particular deluge!

Right, if anybody, anywhere, knows what this sign’s all about (there are quite a few all lined up down this one block here), please do not hesitate to edify!

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Two PSAs

PSA Numero Uno

The Horse’s reading of “She’ll Be Comin’ ’round The Mountain” — from its new album of Horsed-out old-time Folk tunes — is freaking awesome!

Young has exhumed some lyrics I’ve certainly never heard of. “We’re gonna kill the big red rooster when she comes”? “She will take us to the portals when she comes”? What?? (Well, I guess if nothing else, it shows that Christians were just as nuts way back in the Nineteenth Century as they still are to-day.) Anyways, the arrangement will blow you away. This is a song to which to stop everything you’re doing, close your eyes, and attempt to levitate. (Just, don’t forget to crank it up.)

Though it’s decidedly not in the same class as Springsteen’s similar project from a few years back, the rest of the album is quite good as well. (To be fair, that Springsteen disc proved out as my fourth-favourite rekkid of the ’00s — so, rather a tough act to follow!)

PSA Numero Dos

More of an FYI that a PSA, I guess. Having been two years gone since its release, I feel it safe to now officially promote Ted Leo’s & The Pharmacists’ “Woke Up Near Chelsea” — from the fantastically great album The Brutalist Bricks — to my favourite all-time Punk Rock song. It’s the only time, in this blogger’s opinion, the band have managed to truly capture in studio the unrivaled ferocity of its live act.

Kinda surprised to’ve been unable to locate the track online; I went and slapped together a very basic slideshow. (Oh, yeah: don’t forget to crank it.)

So, I guess the rest of the top five now plays out as follows.

In second, we gots Sleater-Kinney with “Entertain”. Well factually, I don’t like the official video at all. So here they are, instead, performing it live on The Henry Rollins Show. Janet is just on fire here. Good god, how I miss this band! (By the way: uhhhh…Rollins had a teevee show? How did I not know about that? Were there, like, three episodes, or something?)

Bronze medal given to “Holidays In The Sun”. Pretty sure this is the first Punk Rock song I ever heard. At the least, it’s the one first I ever intentionally heard. Still recall quite clearly being in utter disbelief that any song could sound this great.

Batting cleanup, Minor Threat’s “Filler” checks in at a brisk one minute and thiry-two seconds of beautiful, glorious Punk Rock fury. Probably my fave Punk band of all time.

Fifth, but certainly not least, it’s Husker Du with “Books About UFOs”: total Punk Rock rave-up! While the lyrics most definitely do not carry the same heft as do those of the other songs here; I just can’t get enough of that guitar/piano combo.

Posted in Music | Leave a comment

Partly-Cloudy Mountain Hop

Could I just interject with a statement; to clear up any confusion and/or uncertainty which may yet persist in re this important matter? FUCKING MOTORCYCLES ARE FUCKING ÆVIL, MAN. Okay, that off my chest, let’s continue.

[dc]C[/dc]oupla fine day-trips have cemented my fondness for Chiang Rai and environs. First off, on Wednesday, I endeavoured to follow the itinerary of a guy who lived here for a couple of years not-so-long ago. The tour would loop around to the other side of the river, heading down south for a time, then crossing the river and heading back up; visiting three mountain temples/caves along the way.

After crossing the bridge and soaking in some fine scenery…

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It was time to stop at Wat Tham Tupu. The cave was okay; definitely, as advertised, plenty o’ bats on the wing.

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But in point of fact, I preferred to its interior the views of and from the cave.

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Best of all, though, this wonderful cliff-side figure.

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Shortly hereafter, it was, as the sign doth say, The Buddha Cave Temple.

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On the way up the steps into the cave…is that a swine? Have seen some paintings of porkers before now; but not, I don’t think, any sculptings.

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Inside the cave were some pretty neat shrines and stuff.

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Outside the cave, a trail leads along between the mountain and the river for a while, a white Buddha overlooking the latter.

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But it’s the view down along the former which really sizzles.

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Indeed, winding merrily along down the river, the scenery was magnificent, and the motorcycles few in number!

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Big goings-on at this village temple along the way. Some kind of community weaving project, I guess.

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Depicted on the temple walls: even more wholesome fun-good times for the entire family.

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Do I never tire of taking the piss out of organised religion? Hang on, lemme have a think … No, I never tire of taking the piss out of organised religion!

Kept seeing from different stages this one white Buddha away off over yonder…

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But the route never did bring it very close. Instead, it was back ‘cross the river, past the stoney lonesome and whatnot, and thence a visit to Wat Kong Khao.

The temple and its surroundings here were excellently beautiful.

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Too bad it weren’t, during my visit, open for business; as I could only glimpse through the window Lord Buddha all decked out in purple. Not seen that before!

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This cave was by far and away the most compelling of the three. Peaceful enough to mollify a troubled soul, surreal enough to warm the cockles…and spooky enough to keep ya honest.

The first shrine: kinda goofy.

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The cave stretched on back a fairly long way, small Buddhae by their dozens placed in nooks and crannies all around. See the spider there in the second pic? I’ve nothing to say about it.

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Illumination provided by candlelight. Not sure how frequently the candles are changed out, but I was kind of obsessed with snazzy patterns formed by the melted wax upon the ground.

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Plus, the candles they were a-using were just cool.

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All the way at the back of the cave is a traditional enough shrine.

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But in this one sunken chamber area, down where the monks are collecting dripping water in cisterns…

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…is that the Buddha? Looks more like J.C.!

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While down here, I stopped for a while to fart around with the camera’s night-time settings.

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A way fun spelunking, this was! Was struck, upon exiting, by just how superbly the cave, even just inside the entrance, blocks sounds from the outside world. But, y’know, them Durian don’t grow in caves, so no chance to just stay inside forever enjoying the quiet. I do somewhat envy the monks residing here, however.

Back outside, a, like, sylvan theatre in the woods; here, I’m guessing, Buddhism combines with satanics and druidry on certain nights of the year (full moons, no doubt) to deliver the wildest parties in all of Asia. But to-day: just me and him, alone in the woods.

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Okay, then there’s a staircase leading up the side of the mountain. Not as well-maintained as the itinerary’s author had made out that it would be. In fact, “maintained for shit” would be the more accurate terminology. I didn’t even go all the way up, as it was just beginning to seem too treacherous after a while.

When I’d got back down, all I had to show for my labours was a t-shirt soaked through with sweat, a broken lace on my Lunas (don’t know how I’m going to be able to replace this while abroad), a cut toe, and a few dozen mosquito bites. But, yes, the view from way up there was pretty great.

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Heading back up into town is the public beach, and, sort of, hangout-down-by-the-river area. From here, one can look directly back across the river to the big white river-guarding Buddha from the second temple.

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[dc]T[/dc]o-day, then, Friday, it was off to Doi Khao Kwai, AKA “Buffalo-Horn Hill”; which is noted as providing the best view of the area.

Had wanted, in point of fact, to visit the other day, after leaving the beach. But noticing that the clouds were looking as menacing as they had done on the previous day, and that it was getting to the part of the afternoon/evening in which the rains typically begin (if they’re going to), I elected to hold off.

When I got back into town, the winds began kicking up really good one. That’s usually a sign that you’ve got about ten minutes to batten the hatches and notify next of kin (and so forth). But this time…zilch. Never rained a drop! Oh, well.

So, I figured I’d get a bike to-day and head on up there; then maybe see what other mischief I could get up to so long as I’d a set of wheels. But at the last moment, I decided to just walk instead; saving meself 80 Baht, and getting in a nice long walk (about four-and-one-half miles each way).

Thought, “Oh, I’ll just take some back roads and sois and avoid the traffic.” And, guess what? I only got lost once! Pretty good for me. Problem was, though, that while the traffic was less than it’d have been taking mains roads, it was still enough to be annoying as He. Then, the last mile or so, it was triply annoying, with an endless stream of big trucks carrying rocks and dirt hauling on by. Come to find out, the fucking Somsak Concrete Factory is right on the very road I’d chosen! Just brutally idiotic luck, what?

But, finally arrived to the base of the mountain, and climbed on up the drive. A bit longer/steeper than I’d been expecting. Sheeyit, if you thought my shirt had got all soaked through the other day, you shoulda seen me this time ‘round! Even my shorts were beginning to soak through.

So, I had that going for me. Also, this:

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They might send pickup trucks up and down the steps (or at the very least down)?? What a weird world in which we live!

Anyhow, so the view certainly didn’t disappoint.

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Hung my shirt out in the sun to see if it might dry at all, and lingered for a while to enjoy the sights. Finally, it was time to visit the Temple.

I must very declare, the stupa here is the most beautiful I’ve yet had the pleasure to witness. Totally bedecked in mirrors, it is.

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I was initially disappointed in the chapel, as it was kind of a clutterfuck in there – almost like a storage back in the rear; and the stuff fronting the main shrine seemed kind of kitschy and all.

The shrine itself is nothing special.

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And, apart from the obligatory treescape backing the shrine, there’s only one small mural (though it is a pretty nice one).

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But then, once you begins to look around a little more closely, the place rather casts its hooks into you.

For one thing, this seemingly randomly-placed ungulate-skull glued onto a papier mache model of the missing body. Weird…but kinda cool!

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Better still, this mythical wolverine creature whose (according to local lore) “excrement, incredibly, was gold!”

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Even better than that, there are for some reason all these beehives hanging down. Coupla them are strikingly gorgeous.

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Also, some of the figurines front of the shrine were pretty neat. This is maybe kind of awesome. I used a flash for this shot, just to see how it would look like. But with Lord Buddha’s hand placed the way it is, it appears as though he’s trying to ward off the blinding light!

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But buckle your goddam seatbelts, kids; ‘cause you ain’t yet seen jack shit like what I’m about to show you. Well, see if you agree; but me, just my own god damned self personally? I think this is one of the most beautiful sights I’ve yet seen in all of my Asian travels.

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Fuck! Am I just crazy, or what is it? Before answering, look at some more.

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I mean, fuckin’-A, man; does that just knock you right on your ass? Some more!

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You’re impressed right? Well, I’m frickin’ impressed. And besides! Just outside the door, there’s this dude.

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Yeah, so maybe he is a hippie…but he’s also a badass.

Some beautiful leavery up here, too.

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On the way back down, I passed by these two very nice ladies sweeping the drive…

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The one on the right there kept grilling me (with some intensity) with all manner of questions. In Thai, of course; so her friend there would, seeing the confusion set in, relay her friend’s questions to me via pantomime.

They wanted to know where was my motorcycle? And where were my shoes? And, basically (I think), what kind of crazy dumb-assed farang goes day-tripping up to Buffalo Horn Hill without either of these? Anyways, as I say, they were really nice ladies.

Decided, now, to return to town via the more direct route; though it’d mean having to suffer even more annoying traffic noise than during the outward leg. Which, it was true, I did so suffer. But, factually, the scenery along this route was much more the nicer than had been the other’s.

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Then a pretty crazy thing just up and happened. You know: like all unbidden, and shit. Just walking along next to these-here bushes…

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…and suddenly felt the strongest desire that around that bend would be a sprawling patch of blackberries! I’ve not seen ever a one blackberry in all of Asia; but in that moment, there was nothing I more desired. The hopes were dashed; so cruel.

Between that and the traffic, I was just about feeling that the World had got it in for me. But then!: Mr. Buddha, he done put in front of mine eyes a little-old pick-me-up.

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This put the hop back inna my step! Ravenous, stopped by the market to load up on Longkongs. And scarcely one-half of one hour after mine having returned to the guest house and settlin’ down to “pig out”, the skies opened up and the rain did pour down. Whew! Lucky thing I’d taken the more direct route back.

By the way, I have seen Strawberries in Asia; street-vendors in Bangkok sell ‘em. Imported from China, I think. But I don’t even like strawberries.

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