{"id":8659,"date":"2015-01-07T09:34:05","date_gmt":"2015-01-07T02:34:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/?p=8659"},"modified":"2015-01-07T10:26:01","modified_gmt":"2015-01-07T03:26:01","slug":"castles-in-the-sand","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2015\/01\/07\/castles-in-the-sand\/","title":{"rendered":"Castles In The Sand"},"content":{"rendered":"

I must make an effort to seek out some highly regarded Indian travelogues. Because from what I<\/em> can tell, India cannot be described, it can only be experienced. Even the almighty Shantaram<\/em>, whose story couldn\u2019t possibly be more compelling, and whose prose makes me shudder with awestruck glee, doesn\u2019t even really get close to capturing the essence of India.<\/p>\n

And for the stranger plopped down to be and think and feel in this very strange and wonderful land, even the experience itself is unspeakably surreal. Almost every day in India elicits a Jack-Buckian I-don\u2019t-believe<\/a>-what-I-just-saw moment which leaves the traveler gasping — for breath, words, meaning, everything. Just make sure that when you come here you don\u2019t misuse the monuments, okay?<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-28<\/a><\/p>\n

India is lousy with forts, and Jaisalmer\u2019s, which sits like a mirage at the edge of the desert…<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-29<\/a><\/p>\n

…is famous for being the World\u2019s oldest working fort. That is, there are residences inside, along with hotels, restaurants, trinket shoppes, and cetera. Unfortunately, the fucking motorcycles and tuk-tuks are in there too, so it rather kills the mood. Still, who wouldn\u2019t want to run around in there all the day long playing Desert Sentinel? I, for one, certainly wouldn\u2019t not-want to!<\/p>\n

As impressive as the fort, though, is the intricate carving and beautiful architecture of the city\u2019s Havelis \u2013 family dwellings built from stone. Both inside the fort, and out in the old part of town, amidst the winding, narrow alleys, one could scarcely believe how much time and care it must have taken to finish one of these suckers off. Some of them are so impressive, the families actually charge admission to go in and have a look.<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-29<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2014-12-29<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2014-12-29<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2014-12-31<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2014-12-31<\/a><\/p>\n

In addition to the shockingly beautiful havelis, one may find, whilst winding through the back-alleys, such-like as these kids, playing a hopscotch-like game. At first, they were very excited to explain to me the game\u2019s intricacies; but once I pulled out the camera, they seemed more interested in the interview itself.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=s52cbc7tm6U<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

Wandering through the bazaars and alleys and fort, one feels vaguely like Indiana Jones in Cairo, while walking about in the vast scrubland surrounding the town, one can imagine oneself as Lawrence in Arabia. Engaging in the latter endeavour is a great way to escape the motorcycles and tuk-tuks — and even, though there are plenty of footprints in the sand, the crowds of people. A nation of 1.2 billion people, yet it\u2019s still possible to find large swathes of unoccupied space.<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-31<\/a><\/p>\n

Unlike in Punjab, where everybody wants you to take pictures of them with your<\/em> camera, here in Jaisalmer everybody wants you to stand for photos with them, using their<\/em> own cameras. Sometimes, they don\u2019t even ask permission \u2013 they just go and pose next to you, with their friends snapping away! The same is true in Jodhpur \u2013 except that hereabouts they want you to take photos of them as well (getting you both coming and going, in other words).<\/p>\n

There\u2019s a small little heritage museum in town running a twice-nightly puppet show which (could have been more because of the proximity to the holidays) is very<\/em> well attended \u2013 by young and old alike. I could do without all the squeaking, but certainly these are some good fun puppet skills here \u2013 and the music is as unimpeachable as.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=2MULrrHEyuY<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

My favourite sign in Jaisalmer. I was standing admiring it, and a guy next to me, seated on a bicycle, asked, completely straight, \u201cYou need an egg?\u201d He weren\u2019t joking, but I near to busted a gut over that one, I can tell you.<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-29<\/a><\/p>\n

Had to have a (good-natured) chuckle at this sign as well. In fact, though \u2013 owing, no doubt, to the British influence \u2013 the English-language signs in India generally exhibit impeccably fine grammar.<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-29<\/a><\/p>\n

Though the reputation of the former is in lower esteem, I, personally, find Punjabis more fascinatingly attired than Jaisalmerians \u2013 but the latter know how to rock their clothings too right as well. Plus, watching the womenfolk schlepping packages of all shapes and sizes around town up-top of their heads is a treat in any<\/em> language. For the fancy-dress championship, though, we\u2019ll have to travel to Jodhpur.<\/p>\n

\"2014-12-30<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2014-12-31<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2014-12-30<\/a><\/p>\n

Not only this, but Jaisalmer\u2019s very sunny and warm-bordering-on-hot days were a great and special treat after Amritsar\u2019s and Delhi\u2019s cold foggy days and bone-rattlin\u2019-frigid nights. Alas, the wind kicked up right on New Year\u2019s Eve, sending me, shivering, under the covers well before midnight.<\/p>\n

The first bus trip of the new year, and the coldest one ever, brought me to Jodhpur, the Blue City \u2013 so-called because the Brahmins here all paint their abodes up in a lovely shade. It\u2019s quite a sight looking down from above, even despite all the smog.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-04<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

Also possible to view from above: The local cricket ground. Can\u2019t really tell with the zoom engaged here, but from this perch, it\u2019s akin to being in the upper reaches of a stadium\u2019s third deck. These kids may be more interested in goofing off than in actually playing out a proper match — but they\u2019re quite entertaining nonetheless!<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=O8a_3mKbzjo<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00a0\u00b7<\/p>\n

But the most dazzling sight of them all is Mehrangarh, the massive, Gilliamesque fortress here which makes Jaisalmer\u2019s behemoth look like greasy kids\u2019 stuff.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-05<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

Around the grounds of the fort are some cool old murals…<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

…as well as many buskers, lilting out incredible and moving melodies.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=xaMmltOewk4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

And the tour of the palace, which doubles as a museum, houses a good many more of the inestimably gorgeous Indian Miniatures…<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

…not to mention this hilarious pair of be-turbaned staffers vacuuming the royal Elephant-ridin\u2019 chair right smack in the middle of the museum\u2019s opening hours.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=BOYA_Ytv96I<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

The highlight of the day, though, arrives in mid-afternoon, when these one dudes take to the top of the castle keep and toss succulent meats into the eagles\u2019 waiting mouths.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

Observing the scene lying on one\u2019s back as the eagles swirl and circle over the massive, towering edifice while the sun makes its way toward the horizon and the musicians play out their hauntingly beautiful trad arrangements…<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-02<\/a><\/p>\n

…one feels not only disconnected from one\u2019s body, but from space-time itself \u2013 this must be, one supposes, how life is like in the aetheric plane. But no: It\u2019s just India, working its magic yet one more time.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=aKCreHjhWwQ<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

For my money, Mehrengar is even a more impressive and mind-dazzling sight than the Taj Mahal. Agree or disagree, place it well near the top of your Indian itinerary\u2019s must-see list, \u2018cause you ain\u2019t ever going to experience the World in quite the same way again after having cast eyes upon it.<\/p>\n

Some people in town think the Raja\u2019s house is as impressive as the Taj. From a distance, it certainly looks like it could<\/em> be \u2013 or could at least be awesome enough for the Wizard Of Oz to live in.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

Up close, though, while nice, it\u2019s not really anything all that <\/em>special.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

The math wizzards among you-all may, by the way, take some interest in this little koan, spotted on the admission ticket granting access to view the palace.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

The other big architectural draw here is Jaswant Thada, a cenotaph for Jodhpurian royals. It\u2019s pretty nice. I like the way my feet look on the marble floor.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

Just as they were at the fort, the buskers here are to die<\/em> for. I mean, how fucking drop-dead are these guys\u2019 playings?<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=1juGy0uhP7s<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

They look great, too, of course. As do the Jodhpurians in general. This-here posting is already become too laden with photos, however, so will have to have a wait and despatch evidence under separate cover.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

For now, let\u2019s have a few from a local temple I came across whilst out for a wander. We get Krishna coming perilously close to pulling a Ronnie James Dio, and a coupla mural paintings of gurus depicted in surprisingly mundane domestic scenarios (never seen a temple with anything quite like these murals before now).<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

Also never seen anything quite like this<\/em> guy before…<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-03<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

I did pay a visit to a cool and fairly new desert flora\/fauna remediation and preservation<\/a> park near the fort. It offers some nice little loop trails, and some great bird-watching.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-05<\/a><\/p>\n

Speaking of whom, very near the park is an area from which to gain a different, equally spine-tingling angle of the nightly eaglepalooza.<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-05<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

Can\u2019t get enough of those mofos. Also, nobody<\/em> could ever<\/em> get enough of monkeys, ain\u2019t it?<\/p>\n

\"2015-01-05<\/a><\/p>\n

These ones were out for some supper as well, munching away on some Coconuts (I think it was).<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=r5B7b8XrxnM<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

\u00b7<\/p>\n

The pollution \u2013 air, water, noise, ground \u2013 is a major issue here. And the motorcycles and tuk-tuks pose a greater menace to society here — hurtling more recklessly through the narrow and bustling alleys of the Old City than one could believe even possible — than anywhere else I\u2019ve ever set foot (including George Town).<\/p>\n

But, damn, Jodhpur done kick-ed my dimpled ass with great swiftness \u2013 <\/em>and I haven\u2019t even mentioned the incredible<\/em> musics audible in public here, both of the religious and the secular variety. There are so many mosques here in the Old Town that their prayer-calls\u2019 vibrations make it feel as though the city is going, at any moment, to lift off and commence levitating. Meanwhile, as I type these very words, there\u2019s an awesome Bhangra mix being bumped out of somebody\u2019s<\/em> speakers near to the guest house. De rigueur in this burg — but, hopefully, it never shall end.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I must make an effort to seek out some highly regarded Indian travelogues. Because from what I can tell, India cannot be described, it can only be experienced. Even the almighty Shantaram, whose story couldn\u2019t possibly be more compelling, and … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8659","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-culture","category-grandeur"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8659","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8659"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8659\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8659"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8659"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8659"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}