{"id":8574,"date":"2014-12-29T21:35:38","date_gmt":"2014-12-29T14:35:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/?p=8574"},"modified":"2014-12-29T23:14:11","modified_gmt":"2014-12-29T16:14:11","slug":"xmas-in-delhi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2014\/12\/29\/xmas-in-delhi\/","title":{"rendered":"Xmas In Delhi"},"content":{"rendered":"<p align=\"justify\">The ride from Amritsar to Delhi took longer than I\u2019d guessed it might. We departed before sunup, and arrived after sundown. That\u2019s a local bus for you \u2013 but it was also quite inexpensive. And, being the only gringo on the trip, I drew plenty of attention from my fellow riders. In particular, during one of the layovers, two nurses asked me to stand with them for a photo; and my seatmate recommended to me many locations to visit, always careful to impress with photos from the web.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">But people were friendly in general. Which I\u2019ve found to be true throughout India so far. I had bridled myself for the opposite, based upon other travelers\u2019 reports \u2013 but then, many travelers also report that they\u2019ve found Thais to be unfriendly, while such a suchness couldn\u2019t possibly be further from my experience.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">As we approached Delhi, I was distressed to see the smogginess increase proportionately to our proximity. But we arrived under cover of nightfall, and, well, there\u2019s just something magical, ain\u2019t it, being in a pulsating, throbbing, thriving metropolis at night. The sights, the sounds, the smells, the electric thrill of the communal experience always seem heightened after the sun goes down.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">They call the Taj Mahal one of the Wonders of the World \u2013 but I think it should be Delhi\u2019s Metro system. So massive (<em>six<\/em> lines, not including the Airport Express \u2013 Bangkok, by comparison, has three lines), so quiet, so sleek, so fast. Trains running so frequently. Stations so clean, well-signed and informative, well-lit, well-maintained. And so inexpensive it may as well be free: A thirteen-station journey, for example, checks in at thirty-three cents! Are you fucking kidding me?<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The very qualities that make it so lovable, however, also make it <em>extremely<\/em> popular: The crush of bodies piling into the carriages is so dense that one could, if one so chose, simply lift one\u2019s feet from the ground and surf with the tide right onto the train. The major problem, of course, is that it\u2019s almost impossible to move one\u2019s arms about, so woe betide those who develop mid-trip an itch what needs scratching.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I got the Metro to the train station, and went straight away to the International Tourist Bureau to secure an onward passage. I was worried that it might be about to close &#8212; and with both Christmas Eve and Christmas day being official holidays here, that it might not open again \u2018til Boxing Day. Turns out it\u2019s open 24\/7, including Sundays. But I took a number, which was sixty numbers greater than that currently being served.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">So, made the twenty-minute hoof to the hostel, checked in, went back, and the queue had only advanced by twenty people. So I went out and found some Bananas, ate them up, went back, and only ten more places had elapsed. So I went <em>back<\/em> to the hostel, grabbed some reading material, and returned yet again. Now, the numbers were cycling through more quickly, it being pretty late at night, and many number-holders having abandoned their places in line. So, didn\u2019t have to wait long after that, and was able to book the very train I wanted, no fuss\/no muss.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">So I was already kind of in love with Delhi. But then, come morning, and seeing how truly awful Delhi\u2019s air quality is, my heart sank low. It\u2019s apparently only the third-worst in India, and doesn\u2019t even crack the World top-ten. But it\u2019s plenty horrible enough. Too bad, too, \u2018cause it otherwise looks to be a city in which one could spend several weeks just seeing the sights and experiencing the vibes.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">One such sight, which I just happened upon by chance, is this <em>massive<\/em> Hanuman statue. India\u2019s structures are on such a gigantic scale that this doesn\u2019t even rate a mention in listings. But I for one am duly impressed.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-25-120422.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-25 - 120422\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-25-120422_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-25 - 120422\" width=\"364\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-25-120540.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-25 - 120540\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-25-120540_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-25 - 120540\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">As I say, one could easily spend days upon days walking around seeing such sites, as well as the big-ticket locations for which the city is famed. But, better to try it during the rainy season, perhaps, when the air isn\u2019t actively trying to kill you dead.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I did spend an entire day at the Naitonal Museum here. It may well have been the best ten dollars I\u2019ve ever spent (and half of that was for the camera fee \u2013 it\u2019d be five dollars for those who didn\u2019t feel a particular need for photography).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The sculptures and carvings housed here, while not quite in the same class as those to be found at Angkor Wat or Kathmandu, are very great.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-154410.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 154410\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-154410_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 154410\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-154506.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 154506\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-154506_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 154506\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-155046.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 155046\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-155046_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 155046\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-161743.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 161743\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-161743_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 161743\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">But, c\u2019mon, it\u2019s India, and that means Indian Miniature <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Indian_painting\">Painting<\/a> for all the marbles. The best thing ever, it is. Though that\u2019s only an opinion, and though there are uncountable phenomena to which I\u2019ve not been exposed, I do mean it literally: In my estimation, there is no more masterfully realised depiction of the human experience. And the Museums\u2019 collection did not disappoint \u2013 just shaking my head over and over and over again at the impossibly brilliant quality of these works.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">They\u2019re all behind glass, which makes photography deuce frustrating. But I took lots, lots, lots, and still lots more. I took so many goddam pictures, I think I developed a mild case of Tennis Elbow (or what). They\u2019re all up there on the Flickr page, if you wanna <a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/14623934@N04\/sets\/72157649561240127\/\">look-see<\/a>. But, as usual with these types of things, there\u2019s no substitute to seeing them in person. So get your dimpled ass over here! (Actually, I think there are some pretty big collections in the States as well, if one is so inclined.) Here\u2019re just a very few faves.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-120935.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 120935\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-120935_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 120935\" width=\"517\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-124533.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 124533\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-124533_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 124533\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-151233.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 151233\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-151233_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 151233\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-123316.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 123316\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-123316_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 123316\" width=\"644\" height=\"431\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u2022<\/p>\n<p>And these, just for the comedy value:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-151849.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 151849\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-151849_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 151849\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-151900.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 151900\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-151900_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 151900\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u2022<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-134125.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-26 - 134125\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-26-134125_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-26 - 134125\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">There\u2019s actually a story behind this second one which makes it at least a <em>little<\/em> bit less weird. If you prefer to remember the scene the way you\u2019ve found it here, then skip ahead to the next paragraph. &#8230; So, what the deal was, back in the day they\u2019d feed this certain plant to the cows to turn their shit yellow. Then, they\u2019d harvest the shit and boil it up, and at the end of the process would have their yellow paint. Pretty neat, eh?<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">In addition to the Museum and whooshing around hither and yon on the Metro just for the fun of it, I did manage to hit the streets of Old Delhi as well. While pretty crazy, it\u2019s not nearly so intense and unsane as I\u2019d been led to believe it would be.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The quantity of goods being transported by human and animal power is pretty staggering, I must say. I think it\u2019s mostly rice and lentils, at least in this part of town. It looks like the leading distributor of the latter is an outfit called \u201cHi-Tech Pulses\u201d \u2013 which screams GMO as loud as anything could. So, welcome to India?<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8574-1\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=xZP62XHNLgw&#038;_=1\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=xZP62XHNLgw\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=xZP62XHNLgw<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"justify\">This Chisel Master, meantime, is here all day every day, carving out signs, or scripture, or some damned thing. I could have watched him forever, but he seemed a bit uncomfortable to have the camera trained upon him, so didn\u2019t take as much footage as I\u2019d have liked. He\u2019s especially fun to watch at night, with just the one little lamp to light up his affairs.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8574-2\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=m55UAtZi6sk&#038;_=2\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=m55UAtZi6sk\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=m55UAtZi6sk<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\" align=\"justify\">Finally, from Amritsar, everything you ever needed to know about how to tie a turban.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8574-3\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=H8KYzaEr86s&#038;_=3\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=H8KYzaEr86s\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=H8KYzaEr86s<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00b7<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The ride from Amritsar to Delhi took longer than I\u2019d guessed it might. We departed before sunup, and arrived after sundown. That\u2019s a local bus for you \u2013 but it was also quite inexpensive. And, being the only gringo on &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2014\/12\/29\/xmas-in-delhi\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8574","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-culture"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8574","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8574"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8574\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8574"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8574"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8574"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}