{"id":8396,"date":"2014-12-15T23:58:02","date_gmt":"2014-12-15T16:58:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/?p=8396"},"modified":"2014-12-16T02:07:20","modified_gmt":"2014-12-15T19:07:20","slug":"planet-benares","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2014\/12\/15\/planet-benares\/","title":{"rendered":"Planet Benares"},"content":{"rendered":"<p align=\"justify\">This ain\u2019t no Bollywood, this ain\u2019t no disco, this ain\u2019t no foolin\u2019 around.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Not that I spent much time trying, but nothing I could have done would have prepared me for this place. From the moment one steps off the train in Varanasi, to be greeted by the full frontal assault to all senses, every living second is an eternal struggle to survive. The mere act of traversing a single city block, if completed without being killed or driven insane, feels like the most monumental of accomplishments.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">On the street, the vehicles\u2019 horns are blaring every second of every day \u2013 and they\u2019ve apparently been modded in some way, because they\u2019re frickin&#8217; <em>louder<\/em> here than anywhere else. Sidewalks? Forget about it. You take your chances in the street, along with the bovines, the mountains of rubble and trash, and every kind of wheeled contraption the imagination can conjure \u2013 the latter all coming at you as fast as they\u2019re able; giving no quarter, taking no prisoners.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-1\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=_01f1cmi1LE&#038;_=1\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=_01f1cmi1LE\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=_01f1cmi1LE<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in Hinduism; the place where kings come to be cremated, their ashes strewn to the Ganges. It means, among other things, that the cows are free to come and go as they please. In practice, you\u2019ll find them eating out of streetside garbage heaps.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-123851.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 123851\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-123851_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 123851\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The people also show their reverence to the sacred cows by throwing bricks at them, beating them with lead pipes, and grabbing them by the horns and violently torqueing their necks. <em>Yay<\/em>, religion!<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Indeed, if there\u2019s a Garden Of Eden, Varanasi may be the place it\u2019s furthest from. In no place I have ever been is humans beings\u2019 unceasing war on Mother Nature more obvious. Sure, I\u2019m well aware that the U.S. of A., accounting for 5% of the World\u2019s population, produces 50% of its waste. But, we\u2019re good enough at burying it underground and offshoring it to \u201cvastly <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Summers_memo\">underpolluted<\/a>\u201d Africa, that we\u2019re kind of sort of able to pretend it doesn\u2019t exist.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Varanasi\u2019s in-your-face waste disposal may be more honest than the Americans\u2019 out-of-sight-out-of-mind solution \u2013 but that doesn\u2019t make it more palatable. When one\u2019s nose is beset by the smoke of one of a million fires of burning plastic, it\u2019s only to hope and pray that the next step will bring a return to the relatively benign waft of human\/animal faeces.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And when one chances to see a moment of tenderness amidst the raging turmoil \u2013 a single flower mounted atop a vendor\u2019s Snap Peas, for example, or a puppy having a nap on a bed of leaves \u2013 it\u2019s almost enough to make one believe that there actually may <em>be<\/em> a god up there.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-121021.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 121021\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-121021_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 121021\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-142251.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 142251\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-142251_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 142251\" width=\"364\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Already surly thanks to my train\u2019s having arrived six hours behind schedule, by the time I\u2019d run the one-hour gauntlet from the train station to my hostel, I wanted with every fibre of my being to turn &#8217;round and march my dimpled ass right back to Kathmandu.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Not that there hadn&#8217;t been some endearing moments: Seeing a line of ladies carrying duffel bags full of stuff down the street on the tops of their heads, say; or a little girl making a delivery from her parents\u2019 restaurant, being very careful not to spill a drop. But if going out to explore a city requires one to first attach a pair of plugs into the ears, a clothespin over the nose, and a breathing tube down the throat&#8230;kinda takes away the allure.\u00a0 I\u2019d promised some people <em>in<\/em> Kathmandu, however, that I\u2019d not judge India by Varanasi. And I <em>did<\/em> want to check out the ghats, of course.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">When the hostel\u2019s owner pulled out a map of the city and started marking off cool places to see and awesome things to do, and told me a bit about the its history \u2013 apparently, Varanasi vies with Marrakesh for the distinction of the World\u2019s longest-standing city of continuous occupation \u2013 I purposed to give it a chance. \u201cSo, the cremation ghats are in operation from sunrise \u2018til sunset?\u201d I naively asked him. He responded that the cremations have been ongoing 24\/7\/365 for <em>centuries<\/em>! That bit of trivia elicited a gulp or three.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">So, I set out to see the city in a different light. And&#8230;while it may be the most stomach-turning place in which I\u2019ve set foot, it might also be the most compelling. But for that, it&#8217;s completely impossible to adequately describe or portray. The most apt way of\u00a0 putting it might be to say that if Terry Gilliam and Werner Herzog in their primes had collaborated to make a picture, the result might have been something like Varanasi. Think, e.g., <em>Brazil<\/em> and <em>Munchausen <\/em>mashed up with\u00a0<em>Fitzcarraldo<\/em> and <em>Stroszek<\/em> &#8212; but that still doesn&#8217;t even begin to give the impression.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The wonderful, shocking, fantastical, disturbing images arrive in such flurries of abundance that one is reluctant to even reach for the camera, in fear that so doing will result, in the blink of two eyes, in one&#8217;s having missed a half-dozen indelible moments. That said, I have managed to cobble a few snaps from Varanasi, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/14623934@N04\/sets\/72157649291083309\/\">uploaded<\/a> them to the old Flickr page. Have a look &#8212; but just know that this place is 10,000 times more intense than the pictures might suggest.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The people (especially the menfolk, with their impossibly beautiful crops of hair &#8212; they keep making fun of me for not having any &#8212; and\/or headgear) couldn\u2019t possibly be more fascinating to look at.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-115041.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 115041\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-115041_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 115041\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-124610.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 124610\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-124610_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 124610\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-142145.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 142145\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-142145_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 142145\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-142439.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 142439\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-142439_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 142439\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The street art is <em>phenomenal.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-091651.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 091651\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-091651_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 091651\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-155235.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 155235\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-155235_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 155235\" width=\"644\" height=\"430\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-091257.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 091257\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-091257_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 091257\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-151956.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 151956\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-151956_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 151956\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p>The temples are magnificent (though non-Hindus aren\u2019t given full access to their glories).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-145620.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 145620\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-145620_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 145620\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-100131.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 100131\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-100131_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 100131\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The music is nothing short of staggering. The hostel has nightly activities, and Saturday\u2019s \u2013 just happened to be the day of my arrival \u2013 is a trip to the International Music Centre Ashram\u2019s twice-weekly concert night. This performance pegged in at a whopping 100 Rupees (about $1.80).<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-2\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=3OaH_gyOtFc&#038;_=2\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=3OaH_gyOtFc\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=3OaH_gyOtFc<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And if you think witnessing those fingers of fire couldn\u2019t possibly be topped, on the way back to the hostel, I broke off from the group to go check out a wedding celebration happening down a side-alley.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-3\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=NiHl93zIMSg&#038;_=3\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=NiHl93zIMSg\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=NiHl93zIMSg<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Uh, could I get a, \u201cHoly god damn\u201d? First night in India (not counting the seventeen hours spent in the train station in Gorakhpur): A scant few hours before, I\u2019d wanted to turn tail and run; now, I thought I could spend the all of my remaining days on Planet Earth right here in Varanasi. I was completely in thrall to the Indian experience &#8212; and I hadn\u2019t even yet paid visit to the city&#8217;s main attraction, the riverside ghats.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">That would have to wait another day, it turned out, as my second day in the city was given over to a <em>free<\/em> music programme celebrating, in the words of its advertising poster, \u201cthe auspicious occasion of the centenary of the birth of Sarangi Maestro Pt. Hanuman Prasad Misra\u201d. Seven stunning performances (actually, one of them was a more modern, synth-poppy kind of a deal which I could\u2019ve taken or left), spread over two sessions, which left my jaw permanently affixed to the ground.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Didn\u2019t take much footage, as they were being kind of buttholes about recording, and I didn\u2019t want to draw attention to the fact of my audio recordings. These clips are neither from the best of the performances, nor are they the best passages of the given performances. Still, you\u2019ll like what you see.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-4\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=FYm-MyDcZSU&#038;_=4\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=FYm-MyDcZSU\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=FYm-MyDcZSU<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-5\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=QWAcCaktbcc&#038;_=5\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=QWAcCaktbcc\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=QWAcCaktbcc<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Will attempt, over the next days, to get my audio files uploaded, and then share them in this space.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And, even yet, we\u2019re not finished with the musics! Had to make another trip to the train station, this time to book a ticket for Agra. The attempt to secure train tickets in India can be a most exasperating experience \u2013 I\u2019m beginning to suspect that trying to book tickets and waiting on late trains will end up consuming a good 80% of my waking hours here. However, when celebrations such as this one (if I understood correctly the gentleman who explained it to me, marking the visit of the president of Uttar Pradesh) can certainly help to take the edge off.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-6\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=WDBTIelMPpw&#038;_=6\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=WDBTIelMPpw\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=WDBTIelMPpw<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Moreover!, a few nights after that first experience, I chanced to spy a <em>second<\/em> wedding down a <em>second<\/em> side-alley (I hear that it\u2019s wedding season right now) \u2013 and this one, rather than winding down, was just ratcheting up. I don\u2019t know whether guidebooks list Indian weddings as must-see attractions \u2013 but if not, they fucking well <em>ought<\/em> to. I spent so much time hanging \u2018round this one, taking photos and footage, that I was invited inside to hang out in an anteroom with half-a-dozen other gents &#8212; including the groom, who was a few minutes away from going to get on the horse and begin the procession.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">That was pretty thrilling &#8212; though, because of not wanting to be a cultural dickwad, I ended up eating some pastries which were offered to me. The portions were small enough that I didn\u2019t get too sick \u2013 just a scratchy throat for most of the next day. But I\u2019m realising that I must be more resolute in declining celebration foods here on the subcontinent, as this is now twice that I&#8217;ve succumbed. Just gotta tell \u2018em, I guess, that it\u2019s doctor\u2019s orders: I\u2019m only to consume fruit.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-7\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gjcxk-E1mD8&#038;_=7\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gjcxk-E1mD8\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gjcxk-E1mD8<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">As is the case everywhere, kids are just the best. These ones were very insistent that I ought to check out their kite-flying skillz (which, indeed, were most impressive).<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-8\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=L7AE06fCWfs&#038;_=8\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=L7AE06fCWfs\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=L7AE06fCWfs<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">One hears so much of the Indian predilection toward cricket; but seems to me that kite-flying is well the overweening preoccupation \u2013 at least in Varanasi. It appears that any kid&#8217;s two most prized possessions are his kite and his bicycle. This little boy here offered to let me try my hand. When I declined, his reply of, \u201cNo problem, my friend,\u201d was so astonishingly genuine that my heart just up and melted all over the floor. A few days later now, I still can\u2019t stop thinking about how wonderful that moment was.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-085956.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 085956\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-085956_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 085956\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">On that walk back from the train station into town, rather than angrily telling the pushy rickshaw and tuk-tuk drivers to stop pestering me, and pointing at and shouting down especially egregious hornsmiths, I was instead shaking hands with any and every person who said hello. Walking through a backroads area, these schoolkids, much as had those in Kathmandu, hammed it up for all their collective worth.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-9\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=dQWnZ-K-AYM&#038;_=9\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=dQWnZ-K-AYM\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=dQWnZ-K-AYM<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-140534.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 140534\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-140534_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 140534\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">A few days later, walking through another backroads area, the kids down at the Aryan Sporting Club were very friendly&#8230;<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-10\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gTWup8tXTJY&#038;_=10\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gTWup8tXTJY\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gTWup8tXTJY<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">&#8230;but in a shocking turn of events, all but these two were too shy to line up for a photograph. Well, these two are dashing enough for twenty, so I guess it all works out in the end.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-135420.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 135420\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-135420_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 135420\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">If I told you how much I love this photo, you\u2019d call me a damned fool j-jackass. Be that as it may, I think my all-time number-one travel tip is to make sure one sets aside time in each place to simply walk around the local areas of cities and towns, off the beaten paths. You\u2019ll know you\u2019re in the right areas when you don\u2019t see any other white faces about. Not saying to <em>avoid<\/em> the tourist attractions; just don\u2019t rush away without having mixed it up with the locals as well.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Meanwhile, this Chai Master is clearly hopped up on <em>something<\/em> \u2013 and I don\u2019t think it\u2019s his own tea.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-11\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=DIaWFsRDtn8&#038;_=11\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=DIaWFsRDtn8\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=DIaWFsRDtn8<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And a visit inside the Old City\u2019s narrow and winding alleys is another adventure unto itself. Witness here the magically persistent rhythm of a print job in process.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-12\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=U00x33KfQxE&#038;_=12\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=U00x33KfQxE\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=U00x33KfQxE<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">&#8230;And then there are the ghats. While the polar opposite of the streets\u2019 chaotic turmoil, visiting the ghats is an even more overwhelming experience than walking the city. When seen from a boat, the Ganges lives up to or even surpasses its dirty\/polluted reputation. But when viewed from the ghats, it\u2019s a sight so beautiful that when taking it in it requires actual, physical effort to hold back one\u2019s tears.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-152218.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 152218\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-152218_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 152218\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">While this may be <em>especially<\/em> true while observing the cremations and the evening puja ceremonies&#8230;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-13\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=yEERW3JQDQk&#038;_=13\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=yEERW3JQDQk\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=yEERW3JQDQk<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-14\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=647bvdPAPzw&#038;_=14\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=647bvdPAPzw\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=647bvdPAPzw<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-15\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=w-sXLUJTIcY&#038;_=15\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=w-sXLUJTIcY\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=w-sXLUJTIcY<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">&#8230;it\u2019s not <em>exclusively<\/em> true then. Even though it\u2019s more a carnival atmosphere down there than spiritual \u2013 kids playing cricket and flying kites and breakdancing&#8230;<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-16\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=z-ggkYqpODA&#038;_=16\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=z-ggkYqpODA\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=z-ggkYqpODA<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00b7<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">&#8230;goofballs dressed up like \u201choly men\u201d and asking for donations, people pissing and cows shitting all over the steps, hawkers selling trinkets or hash \u2013 it\u2019s just about impossible to be in that place and keep oneself from bawling one\u2019s fool head off.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Nobody despises the major religions more than I (and the Hindus\u2019 self-righteous bullshit money-grubbing masquerading itself as piety puts them right up there near the top of my shitlist), there is something undeniably powerful about being in this place \u2013 much like the upwelling of emotion one feels while visiting Chiang Mai\u2019s temples. In addition to the river, it may have something to do with the <em>enormity<\/em> of the architecture. It certainly does feel as though this place was built by and for gods \u2013 or at least giants among men.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-154127.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 154127\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-154127_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 154127\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-154822.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-09 - 154822\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-09-154822_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-09 - 154822\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-085311.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 085311\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-085311_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 085311\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-085333.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-10 - 085333\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-10-085333_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-10 - 085333\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Whatever the cause, it&#8217;s impossible to overstate the effect &#8212; at least upon yours truly.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u2022<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Varanasi&#8217;s treasures beggar the imagination&#8230;but so too do its ecological profanities. So which is the real India &#8212; the shithole from Hell, or the endlessly fascinating Fantasia of Being? Which image, one wonders, is the more appropriate, the former or the latter:<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-134908.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 134908\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-134908_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 134908\" width=\"644\" height=\"430\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-162901.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-12-08 - 162901\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/2014-12-08-162901_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-12-08 - 162901\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">One would love to believe in the latter. The people so friendly and funny and interesting and fashionable and cool, their artistic endeavours so stirring of the soul, their creations and ceremonies so powerful and intense, their foods so pungent and flavourful. The heart pines for these moments of wonder and beauty to be always and ever possible. Life&#8217;s pageant is nowhere, in my experience, so rich as it is here in Varanasi. But, ultimately, the mind knows that the heartful Varanasi, like the whole of the failed human experiment, is a chimera.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Life <em>during<\/em> wartime? In Varanasi, there is no distinction: Life <em>is<\/em> wartime. Humans cannot and will not &#8212; until they&#8217;ve killed each and every living thing, including themselves &#8212; cease making war upon the very mother from whose womb they have sprung. That&#8217;s the only real truth, in all its ruthless brutality &#8212; and in Varanasi, that truth is laid bare for all to see and feel.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Still, should one ever want to know what it is to be truly and fully alive on Planet Human, come pay it a visit. You&#8217;ll not be disappointed.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-8396-17\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=obAtn6I5rbY&#038;_=17\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=obAtn6I5rbY\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=obAtn6I5rbY<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u00b7<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This ain\u2019t no Bollywood, this ain\u2019t no disco, this ain\u2019t no foolin\u2019 around. Not that I spent much time trying, but nothing I could have done would have prepared me for this place. From the moment one steps off the &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2014\/12\/15\/planet-benares\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8396","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-culture"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8396","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8396"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8396\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8396"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8396"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8396"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}