{"id":1746,"date":"2012-02-20T09:09:13","date_gmt":"2012-02-20T02:09:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/?p=1746"},"modified":"2013-06-27T17:15:06","modified_gmt":"2013-06-28T00:15:06","slug":"waterfallworld","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2012\/02\/20\/waterfallworld\/","title":{"rendered":"Waterfallworld"},"content":{"rendered":"<h4 align=\"center\">[Written Friday, February The 17th, Night]<\/h4>\n<p align=\"justify\">Martin and Elisabete checked out of the dorm early this morning, headed off to an Elephant Festival somewhere south of here. Now, I\u2019m the only one here \u2013 the first time I\u2019ve flewn solo in a dorm since Hawaii The Big Island. Actually, it\u2019s a little bit lonely in here.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">For no real good reason other that I\u2019d not gotten \u2018round to it, I\u2019d yet to have visited the city\u2019s No. 1 tourist attraction (or maybe it\u2019s not \u2013 but it\u2019s right up there): Kuang Si Waterfalls. Located 36 kilometres outside of town, you gots to take a Tuk-Tuk there. I did talk to a few guys who\u2019d biked it down there, and said it\u2019d gone more less okay; but it didn\u2019t sound like a very fun trip.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Wanted to go on a weekday, as I\u2019ve read that the place is overrun with tourists at the week ends. So arrived into town early and\u2026the flip-side of fewer tourists heading to the waterfall during the week is that fewer tourists are looking for a <em>ride<\/em> during the week.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Finally, though, I did hook up with a group needing another passenger. Apart from myself, there was a Taiwanese-American currently living in L.A., a Swedish lady (who <em>has <\/em>seen, and loved, <em>My Life As A Dog<\/em>), and a Brasilian couple.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The grandfather of the female half of the latter emigrated to Brasil from Japan. She (the grand-daughter) thus enjoys permanent Japanese residence status. So, they lived there for a year, and have been traveling around many other places, working as needed. They\u2019re soon headed to Nepal to hike up to the Everest base-camp (but no further).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Shoots! Martin was talking about Nepal last night as well. I\u2019m kinda wanting to go there, now, too.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">A little bit out of town, we stopped and picked up a Norwegian couple from a Tuk-Tuk which had had only the two of them. Then after ten or fifteen minutes\u2019 time, we pulled over, and the driver had me re-locate to a civilian pickup truck. I didn\u2019t really know what was going on; but thought that maybe it was more of the horse-trading with other drivers, to maybe get his vehicle up to the eight-person capacity, rather that its then-current seven.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">In the cab of my truck was four locals, plus two more in the back. Seemed like a okay enough way to get to the waterfall, excepting that I missed the company back from the Tuk-Tuk. It&#8217;d been a quite fun and interesting group.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Turns out, we were soon reunited, as the truck pulled over, I was ejected, and puttering down the road come the Tuk-Tuk to let me back on. What it was, there\u2019s some kind of a checkpoint along the way, and if the driver passes it with more than six occupants, he\u2019s got to pay a premium (or what). So, I guess he slipped the pickup driver a few to get me past the checkpoint.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">So, we got to the waterfall, and I was disappointed to learn that we had to leave about an hour-and-a-half earlier than I\u2019d thought. The Brasilians needed to catch a bus for Vang Vieng at such and such a time; so, we had only a couple of hours to explore the park.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The park\u2019s trails are absolutely <em>perfect<\/em> for barefooting: hard-packed, tree-shaded dirt with plenty of countour, and no rocks. The park itself is a paradise beyond what could be imagined (at least by my own self).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Think I\u2019ve learnt a rule of thumb when it comes to photography: the more better the image is in real life, the less justice a photo will do it. Certainly the case here! Nevertheless, I did snap a good many of them. Just keep in mind, what <em>I <\/em>seen in person is so much the more fantastic than what <em>you\u2019ll<\/em> see on the screen.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Don\u2019t know how many falls there are all told \u2013 several score, I should think. Mostly they\u2019re terrace-type waterfalls, reminiscent of Mammoth Hot Springs (but with much more water, natch).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The lowest area\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall1\" alt=\"waterfall1\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall1_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2026doubles as a swimming-hole; rope-swing included.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/ropeswing.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"ropeswing\" alt=\"ropeswing\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/ropeswing_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The next area up the trail\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall2\" alt=\"waterfall2\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall2_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&#8230;does <em>not <\/em>double as a swimming hole.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall3\" alt=\"waterfall3\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall3_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Moving further along, the viewing-stand for the Main Event. Look at all the falls snaking up the hill!<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"waterfall4\" alt=\"waterfall4\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall4_thumb.jpg\" width=\"483\" height=\"724\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">From there, one can hike all the way up to the very top. A hike not for the faint of foot (I was on more than one occasion quite glad to have an exposed tree-root onto which to grab), it was mostly comprised of steps hewn into the dirt. Gets the old ticker pumping, for sure.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Once at the top, one can walk right out into the river, and stand this close to the brink (yes, there\u2019s a fence-rail):<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"waterfall5\" alt=\"waterfall5\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall5_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Then, one can walk through the river, all the way across \u2013 a good two hundred yards, I\u2019d estimate (mostly about shin-deep). About a third of the way across, there\u2019s a huge tree downed, atop which one can stand and receive a massive view.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall6.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall6\" alt=\"waterfall6\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall6_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">There <em>isn\u2019t<\/em> a fence-rail here; and the scene was a bit of a stretch for my slightly-vertiginous blood \u2013 but, I guess, shutterbuggery wins out over vertigo every time.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I\u2019d arrived to the top at about the same time as three Australian blokes and a European girl. I realised, however, that in my photo-malingering, they\u2019d left me way behind. And so, I was all alone. Standing there by myself, and turning around to look back up-river\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall7.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall7\" alt=\"waterfall7\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall7_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u2026I felt that this space was as sacred, or more, as any Temple I\u2019ve been in here. Great googly-moogly, if not for the earlier-than-expected Tuk-Tuk departure, I might <em>still<\/em> be standing there. There are hiking trails up there, too.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">But, eventually I did depart, and began to descend back down the other side of the river. So many great and wonderful trees in the park, but I did come to the one Master Tree.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall8.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"waterfall8\" alt=\"waterfall8\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall8_thumb.jpg\" width=\"483\" height=\"724\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Just lookit that fucker go! What a champion!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall9.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall9\" alt=\"waterfall9\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall9_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Moving down the trail, one reaches a wooden staircase, with a viewing stand so close to the falls you\u2019re practically <em>inside<\/em> them. The water\u2019s dripping right down on you.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall10.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall10\" alt=\"waterfall10\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall10_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Standing there, hearing the falls\u2019 roar, tasting its breath\u2026so fucking amazing\u2026<\/p>\n<p>A little further down the staircase, turn around and, it&#8217;s a full-on mountainside of water.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall11\" alt=\"waterfall11\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall11_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">From here, still a ways down to that bridge, which serves as the trailhead to make the climb up either side of the river.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall12.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall12\" alt=\"waterfall12\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall12_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Back down at the viewing area, people were having picnic lunch and shit (as people ofttimes shall). Among them, this awesome guy. Seen lots of Laotians wearing cowboy hats, believe it or not.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/cowboy.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"cowboy\" alt=\"cowboy\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/cowboy_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Even when you could find a few square yards of water <em>not<\/em> cascading over, it was <em>still<\/em> a scene like out of a fantasy movie.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall13.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"waterfall13\" alt=\"waterfall13\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/waterfall13_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Also on the grounds, an Asiatic Black Bear rescue center.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/blackbear2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"blackbear2\" alt=\"blackbear2\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/blackbear2_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Was running well short on time by now, so only got to check in upon a few of them. Looked like they were enjoying themselves, though.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/blackbear1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"blackbear1\" alt=\"blackbear1\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/blackbear1_thumb.jpg\" width=\"720\" height=\"479\" align=\"right\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u00a0Couldn\u2019t help, upon seeing this one, recalling the late, very great, permanently lamented, Wesley Willis\u2019 lyrics to \u201cTaste a Lechwe\u2019s Ass\u201d:<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Taste a golden retriever&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a zebu&#8217;s hard dick<br \/>\nTaste a caribou&#8217;s smelly ass<br \/>\nTaste a racehorse&#8217;s cock<\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Taste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Taste a zebra&#8217;s ass with Ragu spaghetti sauce<br \/>\nTaste a baboon&#8217;s dick with tabasco sauce<br \/>\nTaste a black bear&#8217;s ass with Smucker&#8217;s grape jelly<br \/>\nTaste an Arabian camel&#8217;s ass with Price Chopper imitation vanilla extract<\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Taste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Taste a jaguar&#8217;s smelly bootyhole<br \/>\nTaste a racehorse&#8217;s shitty ass<br \/>\nTaste an Asiatic black bear&#8217;s dick<br \/>\nTaste a waterbuffalo&#8217;s ass, jerk<\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Taste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<br \/>\nTaste a lechwe&#8217;s ass<\/em><\/p>\n<p>And then &#8212; far, far, far too early &#8212; it was time to go. This place, this just might be the best place god made.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Greatly regret that our time there was so short. But the Tuk-Tuk company was fantastic enough to dampen the pain. Just knowing this place exists is enough to send the soul soaring into orbit.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">On the way back into town we stopped at an \u201cauthentic\u201d Hmong village, which turned out to be a <em>Potemkin<\/em> village: a front for the sale of beads and textiles. These girls looked nice, though. They were singing a song about buying beads from them.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/hmonggirls.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"hmonggirls\" alt=\"hmonggirls\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/hmonggirls_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">There was this one really cute little girl, with her baby brother slung over her back, whose picture I was getting ready to take. \u201cPhoto 2,000 Kip,\u201d she demanded.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cPhoto 2,000 Kip? I\u2019ll pass,\u201d I politely told her.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cPhoto 2,000 Kip!\u201d she insisted.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cI didn\u2019t take one!\u201d I clarified.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cBleargh!\u201d she petulantly spat back at me.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">She followed us all the way back around to the Tuk-Tuk, pestering us to give her 2,000 Kip for her photo. The Brasilian guy took a pic without even paying. Saucy!<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I\u2019ll say one thing for the village: its chickens are perhaps the most beautiful I\u2019ve seen to-date (and Laos is so riddled with beautiful chickens it ain\u2019t even funny).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/hmongchicken1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"hmongchicken1\" alt=\"hmongchicken1\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/hmongchicken1_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/hmongchicken2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"hmongchicken2\" alt=\"hmongchicken2\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/hmongchicken2_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">As we returned, it came out the the Chinawoman and the Swedenne needed a place to stay for the night (had not previously realised they\u2019re traveling together). I offered to lead them to the guest house, carefully enumerating the pros (it\u2019s cheap, staff is incredibly friendly, fellow-travelers kick ass, the outdoor-shower has a river-rock floor) and cons (loud motorcycles, crappy mattresses, slow Internet).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">They walked with me back; but then decided not to stay here, the ungrateful wenches, as it doesn\u2019t offer a female-only dorm. Oh, well; gave me a chance to grab my swim trunks and head for the swimmin\u2019 hole.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">On my way there, I heard my name called from across the street. It was Pheng, the garden-watering local with whom I\u2019d conversed last week. He was all dressed up in his work garb. It was good to see him &#8212; I forgot, however, to ask him why he\u2019d not e-mailed me.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Up the road a piece, some sticky-rice being dried.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/ricedrying.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"ricedrying\" alt=\"ricedrying\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/ricedrying_thumb.jpg\" width=\"323\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Once down to the river, a group of Frenchman (and one Frenchwoman) invited me to join them in shooting the rapids out of the Nam Khan and into the Mekong. Sounded like fun; so we plopped into the water, and away we went.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Bobbing merrily along, the current beginning to pick up, the Frenchman behind me called out, \u201cVen you get to zose rocks, you have to zwim very hard to ze left.\u201d Urp, <em>now<\/em> you tell me. But I zwam very hard to ze left, and, lo and behold, didn\u2019t crash into the cliff.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Then the current picked up some more, and some more, and still some more, and soon, zwoomph: we were in the Mekong! The only problem was, the current was so strong, and the ground so shallow and rocky, that in attempting to stand up, I stubbed my toe really good one. The same one I\u2019ve been stubbing repeatedly since arriving in Asia. There was already a lovely blood-blister on there, and now this.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Later learnt that a little further on downstream, the current isn\u2019t as rapid, and the ground is sandy. Good to know.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The toe was hurting pretty badly by the time I got to shore (not normal for stubs to keep hurting for so long); and when I bent down to check it out, noticed that the toenail was bent to perpendicular from about a third of the way down. Flipped it back into place, hobbled up the bank, poured some water on, and it seemed to calm down a bit.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Still bothering me some as these words are written; but I don\u2019t think it\u2019ll end up being too bad. Curious to see whether that nail is going to continue growing as-was, or if it will instead fall off above the crease-line.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Walking through the Night Market, came upon this photogenic stall o\u2019 umbrellas, which I\u2019d not previously noticed.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/umbrellas.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"umbrellas\" alt=\"umbrellas\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/umbrellas_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>This little girl had about the best seat in the house.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/nightmarketgirl.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"nightmarketgirl\" alt=\"nightmarketgirl\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/nightmarketgirl_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Another bang-up Mekong sunset was had by all.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/sunset5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"sunset\" alt=\"sunset\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/sunset_thumb1.jpg\" width=\"323\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">[Written Saturday, February The 18th, Evening]<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Started walking around this morning, and my stubbed toe was feeling kind of off. Not painful, but just, kind of odd. So, I elected to postpone until the morrow the renting a bike and cycling up to of the Pak Ou caves.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Thought, instead, that I might do some reading and some juggling \u2013 but just ended up walking around all day, enjoying the town yet again. If you would care to believe it, there were <em>still<\/em> some streets and alley-ways down which I\u2019d not yet trod. I think I\u2019ve now covered them all at least once.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Saw a guy playing a bamboo pipe instrument \u2013 he was really quite getting into it.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/woodpipes.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"woodpipes\" alt=\"woodpipes\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/woodpipes_thumb.jpg\" width=\"323\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Spent a while at the World Heritage info centre. The nominal main attraction is this building, which was once an official palace, and which pre-dates the French occupation.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/heritage.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"heritage\" alt=\"heritage\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/heritage_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I liked the building well enough. But for me, the principal attraction was the incredible feeling of peacefulness on the grounds (aided in no small measure by the large number of butterflies winging it about the area).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I did manage to find a couple of temples I\u2019d not yet visited. At one of them, a rare glimpse of the elusive Pink Buddha.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/pinkbuddha.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"pinkbuddha\" alt=\"pinkbuddha\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/pinkbuddha_thumb.jpg\" width=\"323\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The other temple is stunningly, almost impossibly gorgeous. Alas, it was all closed up, so didn\u2019t get to have a peep inside.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/temple5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"temple\" alt=\"temple\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/temple_thumb1.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Also at this temple, some nice golden chicken action. Not a <em>giant<\/em> golden chicken, granted; but nice all the same.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/goldenchicken.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"goldenchicken\" alt=\"goldenchicken\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/goldenchicken_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Found a gallery with some great wood carvings.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/gallery.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"gallery\" alt=\"gallery\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/gallery_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Chanced upon this strange\/terrific flower.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/flower.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"flower\" alt=\"flower\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/flower_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">This family was drying up a <em>huge<\/em> quantity of these chapathi-looking things. There were many more racks than are pictured here.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/chapathi.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"chapathi\" alt=\"chapathi\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/chapathi_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>From the it\u2019s-all-good-\u2018til-somebody-gets-hurt dept.:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u00a0<\/p>\n<div style=\"top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;\">\t\t\t\t<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Luang Prabang Crying\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute;\"  src=\"https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/photos\/6896362193\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Finally, caught the security guard napping. Hey, that daytime sun can be relentless.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/security.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; padding-top: 0px; border: 0pt none;\" title=\"security\" alt=\"security\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/security_thumb.jpg\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Upon returning to the guest house (only three total customers booked tonight \u2013 yikes!), happened to cross paths with the British girl to whom I\u2019d a few nights earlier introduced this place.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">She asked if I knew where she could get something to eat. I was kind of taken aback, responding, \u201cI don\u2019t know if it\u2019s possible to walk five yards in this town without finding something to eat.\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cWhere are you finding these places?!?!\u201d She was pretty exasperated.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cHaven\u2019t you seen all of the restaurants up and down the street??\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cNo! I mean: I just want a sandwich, not any fucking Lao food.\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cOh\u2026well, there\u2019s an Australian pub down the street. Maybe they serve sandwiches.\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cBut where are all the baguette ladies?\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cI think they\u2019re only out in the morning. Maybe head over to the Night Market?\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u201cWell, I\u2019ve been out all day; and I can&#8217;t be asked to walk all the way to the Night Market just to get a sandwich\u2026\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">As I was stammering for something more edifying to say than, \u201cI don\u2019t know what to tell you,\u201d she brandished her fork and added, \u201cDo you know what I mean?\u201d Then she stalked off toward her room.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Good on her for being prepared, I guess. But that was one strange conversation. Actually, she\u2019s pretty chunky; so the night without food\u2019ll probably do her some good, methinks.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><strong>Update:<\/strong> Have been joined in the dorm by an Israeli name of \u201cNitzan\u201d. He\u2019s got dreads. Seems to be throwing money around like it ain\u2019t no thing (<em>flew<\/em> from Bangkok to Chiang Mai; and then bought an expensive three-day package tour from Chiang Mai to here via mnivan and slow-boat).<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">He wants, however, to go on a rural homestay, and live and suffer like real Laotians. That last is very important to him: sumbitch can\u2019t <em>wait<\/em> to suffer.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">He&#8217;s quite anti-noise, as of course am I. But whereas I put in earplugs to drown out the motorcycles and be able to sleep, he started pumping Janis Joplin through his headphones. Seems like a nice enough guy, if a bit hyperactive.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[Written Friday, February The 17th, Night] Martin and Elisabete checked out of the dorm early this morning, headed off to an Elephant Festival somewhere south of here. Now, I\u2019m the only one here \u2013 the first time I\u2019ve flewn solo &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2012\/02\/20\/waterfallworld\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1746","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-culture","category-grandeur"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1746","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1746"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1746\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1746"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1746"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1746"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}