{"id":6357,"date":"2014-05-19T09:22:06","date_gmt":"2014-05-19T02:22:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/?p=6357"},"modified":"2014-05-19T09:51:46","modified_gmt":"2014-05-19T02:51:46","slug":"swayambunath","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2014\/05\/19\/swayambunath\/","title":{"rendered":"Swayambunath"},"content":{"rendered":"<p align=\"justify\">Penultimate day in Nepal, I got my dimpled ass out of bed early, and made the one-hour walk to the Monkey Temple. At the bottom, a pretty good street band, rakin\u2019 in the cash.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-6357-1\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=s7bz1VeDhYM&#038;_=1\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=s7bz1VeDhYM\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=s7bz1VeDhYM<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"justify\">The temple itself is at the top of a mountain, up about a gazillion steps &#8212; Nepalis really love you make to climb up stairs to see the good cool sights! These ones were the worst, though, because the individual steps were <em>inclined<\/em>. You wouldn\u2019t think that that would make it so much more difficult, but in fact, it <em>does <\/em>do.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Plus which, it was actually my second time making this climb. The first time, about a week earlier, I\u2019d clumb all the god damned way up there, and at the very top there\u2019s a ticket-seller booth, charging a 200 Rupee entrance fee. I\u2019m still wanting to maintain my pretty strict policy of not paying to enter temples, so I elected to turn around and head back down. Seeing this, the dude frantically tried to wave me through without my paying; and another guest stopped me and pleaded, \u201cSir\u2026you\u2019d better go!\u201d<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">But I said I didn\u2019t want to upset the Apple Cart, and continued on back down. But then, practically every day, over the course of the next week, somebody at the hostel told me they\u2019d gone to the Monkey Temple that day, and had just loved the shit out of it. And over that week, <em>I\u2019d<\/em> fallen in love with Kathmandu\u2019s temples more generally. So, up I went again, this time forking over the 200 Rupees without even trying to call their bluff and get in for free.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Right when you get in, there\u2019s a performance space there, which at the moment had a choir busting a move. The second clip here is actually a the conclusion of the first clip\u2019s song. Had stopped recording \u2018cause it seemed it was going on for a while, but when the dude opened up upon the conch shell, I felt compelled to record some more\u2026<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-6357-2\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=uLda12YSPvs&#038;_=2\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=uLda12YSPvs\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=uLda12YSPvs<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00a0\u2022<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-6357-3\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=UrKrwkgtaHA&#038;_=3\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=UrKrwkgtaHA\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=UrKrwkgtaHA<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00a0\u2022<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-6357-4\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ZVgcWRewgsk&#038;_=4\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ZVgcWRewgsk\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ZVgcWRewgsk<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"justify\">When one is walking around in Kathmandu, it feels more like a medium-sized city. But from up here top of the mountain, you can see that it\u2019s truly massive. Seems to go on for ever and ever.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-112308.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 112308\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-112308_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 112308\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The temple complex here sprawls over a huge area as well; with religious sites and shoppes and guest houses and restaurants and those selling materials for offerings all jammed into nooks and corners around and about. There\u2019s plenty of open space as well.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">The main attractions, in addition to the monkeys, always watching, waiting\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-085155.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 085155\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-085155_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 085155\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u2026are the big stupa right at the entrance, with its million-and-one Prayer Wheels the pilgrims must each set spinning during their circumambulations\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-082422.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 082422\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-082422_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 082422\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u2026and this one small Buddha image locked away in a cage. Late in the morning, they opened it up for viewing, and a <em>huge<\/em> long line formed. At the head of the line were required not one but <em>two<\/em> security guards to keep people from camping out in front of the Buddha all the day long. \u2026And also, to make sure there weren\u2019t any jackassed tourists taking photos.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I got busted for attempting the latter (only noticed the signs afterward); but, really, this Buddha wasn\u2019t so special anyway. But, here to tell you, this place is a <em>treasure trove<\/em> of sublime imagery.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-084142.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 084142\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-084142_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 084142\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Every time you turn around, there\u2019s something like the above to set your eyes reeling. The ears, however, received the gyp-off:<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-084609.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 084609\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-084609_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 084609\" width=\"514\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">How long you think that room\u2019s been closed to the public? Fifty years? (Fucking would have <em>loved<\/em> to hear that, too.) Well, this Buddha image\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-085514.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 085514\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-085514_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 085514\" width=\"514\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2026dates from the <em>seventh<\/em> century.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-085531.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 085531\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-085531_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 085531\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>And you just walk around for hours and hours, just marveling at all the cool shit to see.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-090003.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 090003\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-090003_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 090003\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-090451.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 090451\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-090451_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 090451\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And if this next shot looks exactly like out of Norman Rockwell, know that there are no photo-processing effects here: this is exactly how it looked to the naked eye.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-091459.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 091459\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-091459_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 091459\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And always the monkeys are watching, waiting\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-091920.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 091920\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-091920_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 091920\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-092132.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 092132\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-092132_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 092132\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>People-watching is great, too, natch. From the ladies in their wicked-cool outfits\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-092028.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 092028\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-092028_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 092028\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2026to the goofy faux-Holy Men camped out right next to the Ice Cream Cone salesmen\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-093858.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 093858\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-093858_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 093858\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2026to the dudes rushing by holding aloft big flaming bowls (believe me, this looked <em>amazing<\/em> from up close \u2013 but they were going too fast to get a good camera-angle of)&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094847.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 094847\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094847_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 094847\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094903.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 094903\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094903_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 094903\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u2026to the little girl in her Sunday Best, checking out this fine string band that had taken up residence near the stupa.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094445.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 094445\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094445_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 094445\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 640px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-6357-5\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/youtube\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=qN8RBgKMSfU&#038;_=5\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=qN8RBgKMSfU\">https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=qN8RBgKMSfU<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p align=\"justify\">Many of the Buddhas are locked away behind cages or plexiglass. This can be frustrating; but also, it can lead to some great photo-ops, set up, for examples, by unexpectedly gorgeous framings\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-095048.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 095048\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-095048_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 095048\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2026or cool, multiple-exposure-esque reflections.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-095736.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 095736\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-095736_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 095736\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">This same Buddha from above offered the ultimate, most appropriate (presumably unintentional) commentary upon the nature of religion that one is ever gonna see.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-095810.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 095810\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-095810_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 095810\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Cut, print, wrap. That\u2019s all you need to know, right there.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Oh, and also: you need to know that wherever you go up here, the monkeys will be there, too. Watching\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094354.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 094354\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-094354_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 094354\" width=\"644\" height=\"364\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Waiting\u2026<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-110643.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 110643\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-110643_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 110643\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Verdict: the Monkey Temple is not only worth the entrance fee, it\u2019s almost certainly the most awesomest place in a city chock to the frigging block <em>full<\/em> of fucking awesome places.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00a0\u2022<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">On my last day in Nepal, I figured I\u2019d get my dimpled ass out of bed about 6:00 in the AM, and hoof it over to Boudhanath, which was about an hour\u2019s walk in the opposite direction as the Monkey Temple. But an Israeli hostel-mate name of \u201cYael\u201d asked me to share a cab with her, \u2018cause there was a ceremony there every day, <em>beginning<\/em> at 6:00 AM.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">I said okay. But then, there were like six people, all from the same dorm, making plans to go there the next day as well. And <em>they<\/em> had heard that the ceremony <em>ends<\/em> at 6:00 in the AM, so if you wanna see it, you needs must arrive at <em>5:00<\/em> in the AM. Which, they were all planning to get their dimpled asses out of bed at 4:30 in the AM, and cab it on over there. There was a Dutchwoman <em>very<\/em> keen on doing so, and she promised to make sure that nobody in the dorm pansied out and slept their lazy ass in instead.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Anyways, so Yael and myself both had <em>our<\/em> dimpled asses up out of bed at 4:30 in the AM, and got a cab over to Boudanath. We were surprised not to have seen any of the peeps from the other dorm. So, we got dropped off, paid the fare, and had been there for a half-hour or so, and we bumped into one of them, an Israeli name of \u201cNitzan\u201d.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">He related that he\u2019d set his alarm, and that he\u2019d gone and woken up the Dutchwoman, whom, he said, had told him to go ahead and go fuck himself. As, apparently, had all his other dormmates. So, he\u2019d gotten a cab out there by himself. Too bad we\u2019d missed him \u2013 could\u2019ve saved us 100 Rupees off the fare, and saved him <em>500<\/em> Rupees off the fare.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Anyhow, so Boudhanath is the largest stupa in South Asia, and another World Heritage site. Let\u2019s see if one can get a feel of the enormity of this sucker, just from some measly photos?<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-051418.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 051418\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-051418_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 051418\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-052425.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 052425\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-052425_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 052425\" width=\"644\" height=\"484\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-052455.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 052455\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-052455_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 052455\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Well, probably not. But it is. Also, you can see that there are an assload of pigeons here as well.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-052654.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 052654\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-052654_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 052654\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">That\u2019s \u2018cause, just like at Dhurbar Square, people are feeding them as though their lives depend up on it. (According to Yael\u2019s guidebook, Hindus believe that feeding animals is pious behaviour. This is a Buddhist site; but there seems to be a fair amount of cross-pollination between the two religions, here.)<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-070829.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 070829\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-070829_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 070829\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>But guess what? Apart from maybe lighting a few candles\u2026<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-050824.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 050824\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-050824_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 050824\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">\u2026there was no fuckin\u2019 ceremony! <em>Loads<\/em> of people there, to be sure. Like, already when we arrived at 5:00 in the AM, there were plenty. But an hour or so later, they were swarming the place.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-070754.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 070754\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-070754_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 070754\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">It takes about ten minutes\u2019 time to make one circumambulation; and you\u2019ve gotta do three per day, I think. So, but, we never needed to get our dimpled asses up at 4:30 in the AM in the first fuckin\u2019 place. Well, whatever. It was still pretty cool.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">After, we went down to Pashupatinath, yet <em>another<\/em> World Heritage site, about half an hour\u2019s walk away. There\u2019re a couple of nice, small temples there.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-075629.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 075629\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-075629_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 075629\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-075703.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-04 - 075703\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-04-075703_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-04 - 075703\" width=\"644\" height=\"429\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And there are some wooded and grassy areas to walk around in. But the restricted area is a thousand Rupees to enter. It\u2019s two very important Hindu temples \u2013 but non-Hindus are refused entrance, even having paid the 1,000 Rupees. Also, the cremation ceremonies happen inside the gates.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">Yael and Nitzan ponied up the entrance fee \u2013 the former only after much convincing by the latter. I refused to pay, and walked back into town. Yael later said that she\u2019d found the cremations disturbing \u2013 like barging in upon somebody\u2019s private business. But Nitzan said that he\u2019d found them quite interesting. If you\u2019re curious, here\u2019s a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=HMOJXPizC5E\">video<\/a> somebody shot,\u00a0 with an explanation of the ceremony.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" align=\"justify\">\u00a0\u2022<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\">And that\u2019s it for Nepal. So much more that I want to see there, even apart from doing more trekking. Super excited to get my dimpled ass right back. Can\u2019t possibly recommend it highly enough.<\/p>\n<p align=\"justify\"><a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-114254.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"background-image: none; float: none; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: auto; display: block; padding-right: 0px; margin-right: auto; border: 0px;\" title=\"2014-05-03 - 114254\" src=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/2014-05-03-114254_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2014-05-03 - 114254\" width=\"580\" height=\"772\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Penultimate day in Nepal, I got my dimpled ass out of bed early, and made the one-hour walk to the Monkey Temple. At the bottom, a pretty good street band, rakin\u2019 in the cash. The temple itself is at the &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/2014\/05\/19\/swayambunath\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6357","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-culture"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6357","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6357"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6357\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6357"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6357"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/durianapocalypse.net\/travel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6357"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}